Icing on the Cake! Saturday, 10/24/26

 

We knew it had to be great -- OAT saving the best for the last of our Patagonian adventures.  Today is our final day of exploring and we were eager to go, excited to see Argentina's national park crown jewel.

Surrounded by snow-covered peaks, we made our way toward Los Glaciares National Park and Perito Moreno Glacier.

I thought I'd include a South America map FYI.  Directly above El Calafate, the big red dot is about where Perito Moreno Glacier is in Southern Patagonia.

From our hotel, the nat'l park was around 50 miles via Hwy 11.  While still miles away we were beginning to get glimpses of the glacier face.

Established in May 1937, the park covers approx 2,806 sq miles, making it Argentina’s largest national park. Its spectacular landscape includes granite peaks, ice fields, turquoise lakes, forests, and more than 40 glaciers. The park encompasses part of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, the world’s third-largest ice mass after Antarctica and Greenland. UNESCO added it as a World Heritage Site in 1981.

 

A Chimango Caracara striking a pose.

This is a massive glacier, covering roughly 97 sq miles.  It extends 19 miles in length and rises nearly 240 ft (!!) above the surface of Lago Argentino, and, of course, much of its immense ice mass lies hidden beneath the water.  It's a whole lot bigger than Grey Glacier which we saw a few days previously.

This side of the glacier seemed to be calving a lot, spewing huge icebergs into the water.  Every chunk that splits off reduces the glacier that much more, so while it's exciting to hear/see, it's sad when you think about that.

So, can you imagine being in one of those red kayaks?

A berg of many colors.

The deep turquoise iceberg that resembled an overturned speed boat held our attention.  Nothing else in the water was like it, neither on the visible glacier.  The white boat was dwarfed when it got up close and personal.

Ubiquitous "we were here" photo!

I've seen pictures of this glacier when it was much closer to the land.  Now, the glacier face is about 900'-1000' from the nearest viewing platform.  Be really something to be only 100' away!

We scrambled over an extensive network of elevated wooden and metal boardwalks built into the cliffs facing the glacier, involving stairs, lots of stairs! We had 4–5 separate color-coded circuits to hike in any order, each offering a different perspective ... we put a lot of steps on the ol' fitbit.  And, good news -- part of the circuit is wheelchair accessible.  

 

I can tell you we stood mesmerized for many minutes, eyes trained on the blue ice, listening, looking, appreciating.  Then we'd move on to the next platform and do the same from a different angle.  Sometimes we'd hear a loud CRACK, and heads would swivel to catch the calving if we could.  The glacier sparkled in the sunshine.

Here, I was simply shooting a panorama when I heard the ice fracture, and I quickly panned over to the break.  You'll see it in the video.

The ice debris formed a heart!

THICK ice.

Click here to read recent news of Perito Moreno Glacier, and a bit about its namesake.

And, when it's over, it's over.  What terrific finish!

L-R Suzanne, Mary V, Ed, Shirley, Robin, Cydette, Jimmy, me, Liz, Robyn, Deb, Bernie and Nan.  Kneeling is our local guide, Jima, and atop us all is our irrepressible Javi, Guide Extraordinaire. 

One last over-the-shoulder glance at Perito Moreno Glacier and the icefield.

Well, that's it.  Our 18-day romp through Chile and Argentina, the Andes to Patagonia ends tomorrow when we board flights home or onward to more adventure.  Javi told us early on that ours would be a trip of many contrasts and he was correct -- we've seen a lot of southern South America in a short period of time.  Did we enjoy it, you ask?  Yes, very much, we enjoyed this OAT Trip of a Lifetime!

Always, we have a farewell dinner.  Tonight we'd break bread at Rancho Aparte Restaurant in El Calafate, hosted by the man you see below:  Gabo (nickname), gracious host, chef, and storyteller.  Once again, gathering everyone for a picture is like herding cats.  Hi Jimmy!

Gabo.

So, for Nan and Bernie, Robin and her mom Shirley, Suzanne, Ed and Debbie, and Mary V, have a safe trip home.  It was fun traveling with you guys!  For Cydette, Liz, Robyn, me and Jimmy, (and Javi) we will continue on, from Buenos Aires to Iguassu Falls.  Woohoo, four more days of WOWZERS!  Stay tuned!

El Calafate, 10/22-23/26

 

Sure, it would be a long haul by bus, in part back the way we came toward Puerto Natales, as apparently there's only one decent, drivable road from Torres del Paine to El Calafate.  No worries, plenty of sightseeing stops en route, plus lunch at El Ovejero in Cerro Castillo, a convenient stop for travelers.  After lunch, we'd walk to the nearby Chilean border office to have our passports stamped (no problem). We also changed buses there and picked up our Argentinian driver. The Argentine border was a short distance away.  And off we went!

Lucky us to be in Torres del Paine this morning.  Spectacular sight.

This poor li'l Austral Parakeet crashed into one of the large windows while we were eating breakfast at Lago Grey.  Stunned, it made it onto the tree trunk and sat for a while.  Perhaps it was posing! 

Look at this vista!  The bulky mountain at left is Paine Grande and those on the right are the iconic Cuernos del Paine -- Horns of Paine -- with Lake Nordenskjöld below (I think).  Seen from our vantage point, the panorama of mountains and lake with a small refuge was simply breathtaking.

A close-up of Cuerno Principal's towering peak.

Wowzers!  

Maybe I've already said this, but, for me, seeing and exploring and experiencing magnificent Torres del Paine National Park was a highlight of this OAT trip.

Well, all good things must come to an end, and so we left Torres del Paine and continued on toward El Calafate.  Above, a gaucho captures our attention.

Photo op!

We arrived in El Calafate in late afternoon.  The bus driver took us through town so we could see how close the hotel was to "downtown."  That was nice, we'd have time tomorrow to check it out.

* * * * *

The next morning (Friday), we made our way to a Patagonian estancia (ranch). where the group would learn more about Gaucho culture.  Estancias were/are large rural ranches, historically devoted to sheep and cattle raising; they relied on gauchos to manage livestock across vast, windswept steppe.

We were met by Gerardo, owner and working gaucho of Bon Accord, established by his ancestors in the early 1900's.  Above, you see a fraction of Gerardo's estancia; he has 30,000 acres!  And he manages it with only one full-time helper (which didn't seem possible to us!).  I do not remember how many sheep or horses or cattle he has, but it's a lot. 

Here's Gerardo, giving us the lowdown on his place and the lamb that's barbecuing for our lunch.  His English was quite good -- he's been practicing with his OAT group visits.  He's wearing a traditional Patagonian gaucho cap called a boina ... and each of us was handed a cap and neck scarf to wear.  Some wore theirs better than others. 😊

Gerardo invited us inside and we were given a brief tour.  Then it was time for group participation:  Meal preparation!  Everyone joined in.  Above, these folks are making salsa.  Starting at left -- Jimmy, Liz, someone I can't identify, Mary V, Bernie and Shirley.  They're rockin' their gaucho outfits.

At the other table is Robin, Suzanne, temporary helper on hand for our visit, Javi (barely seen in blue) and then Deb is the lady in green. We were making dessert -- cookies layered with dulce de leche, the rich, caramel-like milk spread beloved throughout Patagonia.  I shredded the white chocolate that was the topper.  (It was delicious!)

Seen on Gerardo's wall.  My sentiments exactly.

While the lamb was on the fire, we gathered in the main room.  Gerardo held sway here, sharing the history of his family and the estancia.  We were served tea and biscuits and listened as he explained the genealogical chart, above.

Next, we were outside on the grounds.

The day was really fine.

We walked to a large pen where Gerardo's dogs demonstrated herding sheep.

And then into the barn.  Here, kitty, kitty!

This was a puma, endemic to the area.  

Gerardo had 10-15 sheep in pens in the barn.  He grabbed one and, while we gathered around, showed how sheep were sheared using hand shears.  Kind of a gasping moment, as I thought about the poor sheep in inexperienced hands, but Gerardo was a pro.  You see that above!

Group photo before returning to the house.

Lunch was ready, time to eat, and we were hungry.  Not the best picture of anyone above, sorry, but I wanted to show how nice the tables were.  Deb, Ed, and Robin begin with salads.

Set high on a stand, our tasty lunch.

We didn't hang around too long after eating.  Gerardo was a gracious host, and all of us were a little more enlightened for having visited him and his estancia.  Back on the bus for the short drive to our hotel.

Instead, we opted to be dropped off in downtown El Calafate, a neat town, lined with shops and restaurants catering to tourists. Jimmy and I enjoyed a Walkabout, peeking in some of the shops. Founded in 1927 as a quiet sheep-ranching settlement, El Calafate, population approx 35,000, has grown into a welcoming destination with tree-lined streets, cafés, artisan shops, and restaurants.  El Calafate takes its name from the native calafate berry, which we have sampled in several forms. Similar to a blueberry, the berry is a local favorite.

Here's Jimmy with the town's fire truck:  Bomberos!

Our hotel -- Kau Yatun Hotel-- which features traditional ranch style architecture, was close enough that we could and did walk from town.  We'd had another full day, enjoyable, and we were tuckered out.  Jimmy and I opted for a quiet dinner at the hotel restaurant.

Tomorrow, we were told, would be the Icing on the Cake ...

Blue Ice! 10/21/26

 

Whoa, decisions, decisions this morning ... hiking to a rushing waterfall or a two-and-a-half-hour scenic boat tour to the front wall of Grey Glacier?  Of course, we picked the boat and, for us, it was the right move.  Robin and Shirley also chose the boat; the rest of the group did the hike.  Did I mention hike?  We had a mile-and-a-half hike to get to the boat!  And the same on our return.

The boat we'll be on is visible at left.  Looks tiny from this far away.  What a phenomenal vista!

This is Lago Grey (Grey Lake), above.  It appears grey because the light from ice-covered Grey Glacier dominates the water’s surface, and the lake’s shallow, mineral‑laden water and surrounding mountains amplify that pale, silvery look.  So sayeth Wiki.

Hiking the moraine to the boat.  Look at that blue sky.  Instead of rain or possible rain, we have sunshine.  Glorious sunshine (with a few clouds).  Outstanding!

No need to buy ice.  It comes free with the territory.

And it goes in every glass.

We motored a good way before reaching the glacier, even stopping at a refuge to pick up/drop off a few trekkers, and were delighted to watch the icebergs float by.

Hi, Jimmy!  We're getting closer to Grey Glacier.  The top flag is Chile's National Flag and the other is the Chilean Antarctic Territory Flag.  Everyone wears life jackets.

We travelers always called it as we see it, but Paine means "blue" in the native Tehuelche language and is pronounced PIE-neh.  We were all hard put to pronounce it correctly. 😉

Grey Glacier in Torres del Paine is one of the largest outlet glaciers of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field in Chile, terminating at Lago (Lake) Grey -- it tops out at 82 feet, and its brilliant colors are continually tweaked by sun/shadow, with fantastic shapes that change with each turn of the boat.

I mean ... just look at this!

See how the retreating glacier has "twirled" the rock (called a nunatak).  Twirled is not a technical term, but it seemed apt to me.

82 feet!

No calving while we were there.

Grey Glacier's front divides into three distinct arms (or tongues). The glacial arms are not continuous walls but are separated by large rocky outcrops (nunataks) that have become more visible as the glacier retreats.  I had to jostle to the front of the boat to get my video and show two of the arms.  The other was out of my view at that point.

I took a million pictures.  How does one just pick a few to post on a blog?  It wasn't easy.  But I could've added many more than you see here!

Look!  The clouds are clearing out over the mountains!

What can I say?  Absolutely loved the boat tour, getting up close to the glacier, the landscape crowned by those rugged mountains, the Patagonia Andes.  After our cruise, Jimmy and I went on a Walkabout of the Lago Grey Lodge property.  Above, he stands mesmerized by the view -- where we'd been only a short time before.

Thought you might not see a bird picture in this post?  Nope.  Above is an Austral Parakeet, a good-sized bird, with an easily recognizable call, and another Rufous-collared Sparrow that was busy and didn't want to move out of the way of our big feet.  We compromised.

And THIS!  The Horns of Paine in all their glory!  Wowzers!

Well, what a day, what an amazing day of thrilling vistas and simple ramblings ... it'll certainly be hard to top this!  How-some-ever, we can only spend so much time in one place before moving on to the next.  Tomorrow, we travel overland to El Calafate, crossing the border back into Argentina.  Back on the bus.  Count us happy to have visited this fantastic national park.