Bandelier -- Wed, July 1st

 

As long as we were in the vicinity, we wanted to see Bandelier National Monument, about an hour south of Ghost Ranch where our campsite is.  Jimmy and I have experienced Mesa Verde NP, as well as Hovenweep, Aztec Ruins, and Canyon de Chelly (all National Monuments), but we always learn something when we go to a new place and today was no exception.

Bandelier NM was established in 1916 and covers 33,655 acres!  

The people who settled in Frijoles Canyon are known as the ancestral Puebloan people, and the canyon was occupied from about 1150 to 1550 CE.  Archeological surveys show at least 3,000 sites in Bandelier, but not all were inhabited at the same time.  By the mid-1500's, the people who lived here moved on, settling into new homes in villages along the Rio Grande.

The sign at this point read:  "Welcome to the Tyuonyi pueblo."  Tyuonyi had over 400 rooms, one-to-two stories high.  About 100 people lived here, with another 400 residing in the cliffs above.  Tyuonyi is one of many pueblos in Bandelier -- most of the others remain unexcavated at the request of today's Pueblo people.  (who knew?)

The Ranger at the VC suggested Jimmy and I give the 1.4-mile Pueblo Loop Trail a try, insinuating that it might be too much for old folks like us!  Heh!  So, we set off on the trail, past the Big Kiva, Tyuonyi, and up to the cliff dwellings.  Sure, it was "warm," and in full sun, but we had water and were all set.

To people like us who live in Twentieth Century homes, living in cliff dwellings is just plain odd, but the people made do with their environment.  Cliff dwellers have been around for eons, finding shelter as they can.

I wondered how the name Bandelier came about.  The monument is named for Adolph Bandelier, a Swiss, who came to Frijoles Canyon in 1880, guided by a Puebloan.  It's sheer cliffs, year-round stream (dry today) and cave-room architecture inspired him. 

In these rock figures I see ...

maybe a king and queen listening to their people.

Yes, we can climb ladders ... carefully.  Visitors were allowed to go into a few of these cavates (CAVE-ates) which were dug out of the cliff wall.  The cliffs are volcanic tuff, which is soft, but imagine carving caves with only stone tools!

Okay.

In this room (cave-kiva), above, you could climb up and look in, but that was about it. The park service had to close off most of the room due to vandalism (and disrespect).

 

We climbed a few switchbacks on the Frey trail, to a bench where we could survey all in front of us, as you see above.  Very peaceful.

High up, this little cactus clump clings to the cliff. 😊

The lady above - Evelyn Frey - had quite a life here at Bandelier.  I hope you'll enlarge the pic to read about her.  She was quite an adventuress, and she loved this place.  Look here for more:  Evelyn Frey

No moving water today, just a stagnant mosquito-breeding water hole.

These guys were so good, everywhere they went.

Be nice to restart the program.

We finished the loop trail and enjoyed our walkabout.  This pic is at the Frijoles Canyon Overlook, and wayyyyy down there is the canyon.  What a fantastic site!

Oh, New Mexico!  You astound us!

(on our way back to Tergel)

We stopped at Cafe Sierra Negra for a meal, somewhere between lunch and dinner -- a good choice, the food was delicious.  And then, after dinner the sky lit up, a dazzling display.  We even had a few raindrops touch Tergel's roof, but most of the rain that falls from these clouds is Virga and little or none reaches the ground.

Ah, another great day!

Roman Ruins, Wed, 10/13/21

Our Road Scholar trip examines Portugal's (and Spain's) history from Neolithic to the present, and the tales they may tell.  Nope, not a wine country tour, although Portuguese wine is offered at every meal except breakfast!  Many places we'll see are UNESCO sites, recognized as noteworthy for a particular reason.  This morning we're privileged to tour the Roman Ruins of Conimbriga, the most important Roman site in Portugal.  Maybe you're surprised, too, at their existence?  Or not.  Either way, we're lucky to have a local expert guide us through the archeological site and its mosaics.

Our early start meant long morning shadows on the ruins, not a good situation for most cameras, but we made do.  Our guide, at left, is giving us the low-down on what we're seeing, above.  These would have been homes for the upper class.  You see the wall in the back?  Conimbriga was an urban walled settlement that evolved sequentially and built up by successive layers, with the primary period of occupation beginning in the 9th century BCE.

Above are two large mosaic panels unearthed in 1899 and now on display for the public.  They would have been flooring in a rich home.  If I had a drone, I would've captured an overhead photo, showing how stunning each was.

More mosaic flooring for a "rich" home, in situ.

Although Conimbriga isn't the largest Roman city in Portugal, it's the best preserved.  Only roughly 17% of the ruins have been excavated.

Above and below.  The Romans had thermal baths with a network of stone heating ducts under the (now-missing) floors.

The House of the Cantabar (important aristocrat, like a governor) in the 5th Century was the biggest private residence in Conimbriga.  Something like 35,090 sq ft!

An aqueduct carried water from a spring about 4km away.

We all ooohed over the House of Fountains!  This was a great aristocratic residence, with wonderful mosaics, water gardens and fountains.  Construction dates from the beginning of the 1st century AD.  The cover was built several years ago to protect the mosaics.

A few details of the mosaics from the Casa dos Repuxos (House of Fountains).

After walking the grounds (and warming up after a cool morning start), we entered the museum, filled with finds from the excavations.

And then we posed for pics at the pond.

* * * * *

Next, the bus carried us to the City of Coimbra.  Most of us really enjoyed traipsing around the city.  Its historical buildings were classified as a World Heritage site by UNESCO in 2013:  "Coimbra offers an outstanding example of an integrated university city with a specific urban typology as well as its own ceremonial and cultural traditions that have been kept alive through the ages."

Pedestrians only.

Entering the historic old city through massive gateways.

Another resplendent cathedral (monastery).

Inside is an opulent organ with trumpet pipes.

Simply beautiful.  Especially up close.

Many streets are barely a few feet wide.

The four of us, Jimmy and I, Bernice and Ibby, looked around for a tiny cafe away from the tourist-y parts of the city and found the little place above.  Not knowing what the menu offered, we gave it a try -- Bernice and I each had the first starred item, which you see pictured.  It was delicious.  Dunno what was in it besides rice, beans and cabbage.  Don't want to know!  Dinky cups of coffee.

After lunch we visited the University of Coimbra.  First established in Lisbon in 1290 (!!), it went through a number of relocations until moving permanently to Coimbra in 1308 or 1537, depending on which site you read. The university is among the oldest universities in continuous operation in the world, the oldest in Portugal and very impressive.  We saw so many young people in the city and on the campus, looking wholesome and energetic!  

I lifted the above pic from Wiki because you wouldn't believe the library (no photos allowed). It was beyond anything we've ever seen. A Baroque library, it was built in the 18th century and is part of the University of Coimbra General Library.  It's a National Monument and has priceless historical value. No touching anything. Some of the tomes were ancient.  Being inside was awesome.

Looking at previous university "chancellors."

We could enter the university chapel, which was as beautiful as any of the others we've seen, walled with tiles as above.  Check out the ceiling!

Overlooking the city and the Mondego River from the library's upper level.

White houses and red tile roofs.  Perfecto!

Like Energizer bunnies, we continued on.  Next we were invited to a Fado performance, and listening to singing/playing was a  highlight of the afternoon.  The fella in the middle was the singer, with an almost operatic voice (wow!); Portuguese guitar on the left has 12 strings, and guitar on the right is a regular guitar.  This Fado is unique to Coimbra and the university students.  In 2011, UNESCO granted Fado World Heritage status.

After such a busy and pleasing day (whew and wowzers!), the bus returned us to our hotel, the Conímbriga Hotel do Paço. Tomorrow we move on.

Lisbon, Tues, 10/12/21

 

Another full-to-the-max day in Portugal!  We set forth at 8:30am to visit Lisbon's Belem neighborhood, picking up our local guide, Lenora.  Portuguese navigators set sail from Belem on their expedition and "discovery" of India.  We were dropped off in a lovely park overlooking the Tagus River.  Wood pigeons picked at the grass beneath great Stone Pines, which are shaped like perfect half spheres with lush green crowns on short trunks.  Look 'em up, they're pretty neat pine trees.

In the park:  The first plane to fly across the Atlantic from Portugal.

A partial map of Portugal's look at the world back in Vasco da Gama's day, top left.  Whimsical figures dotted the giant round marble map.

The substantial (!!) Belem Tower was constructed between 1514-1519 to defend the Tagus River and the City of Lisbon.  Jimmy and I were standing far enough away that the tower doesn't appear too large ... but it is.  No, we couldn't go up inside.

We had to drive a bit further to get to this special monument, which celebrates the Portuguese Age of Discovery (Age of Exploration) during the 15th and 16th centuries. (Think Vasco da Gama, a name we're hearing often here, of course.)

In this statue, a stylized caravel seems to be setting out to sea, with Henry the Navigator in its prow.  Our guide, Lenora, told us names of all the people were with Henry, but I do not remember!

 

On our way to the next stop ...

... which was the National Tile Museum, housed in the former "Madre de Deus" Convent.  Here I took lots of pictures, probably too many if there is any such thing, because -- again -- this centuries-old building and its contents were beyond gorgeous.  How many adjectives can I use and re-use to describe these opulent or extravagant or awesomely beautiful castles and decorations?  Notice the cute tiled sign for the Tile Museum's restrooms!

Had to take a pic of this one!

Old and new styles.  Many from long, long ago.

And then we entered the former church and convent,

and all stood agape at what they saw.

The lower walls of the church were tiled as you see above, in these huge fantastic scenes.  We walked from room to room, admiring and ogling.

We moved outside the main church to access stairs to the next level.  Here we saw this cat and mouse tiled panel.  Kind of a strange-looking kitty!

I wish I could recall at least some of what we heard, but we move to fast with no time to jot things down, and I have too much brain clutter to retain our guide's words.  No matter, just enjoy!

Yup, it was real.

A section of the ceiling!

The opulence!

Looking down on the altar from the second level.

Gilt wood and tile.

After being overwhelmed by both the tiles and the convent/church, it was back on the bus to check out the Alfama section of Lisbon.  Pictures below.  Alfama is a neighborhood of steep and narrow cobblestone streets with lots of shops featuring traditional crafts, and cafes.

Jimmy, Ibby, and Bernice.

Once again to the bus for a short drive to Chiado, another old Lisbon neighborhood -- this time of the bourgeoisie of the 19th Century. We walked and talked and gazed at everything.  Left then on our own for lunch, we four found an off-the-beaten path cafe, and each of us enjoyed what we had. Jimmy had grilled chicken, Bernice and Ibby had grilled octopus, and I had grilled sardines. Yowza!

Finally, we were on our way to our new hotel, this one in Condeixa, roughly two hours north by bus and more inland.  So far we are liking Portugal.