Mission Concepción, Wed, 3/13/19

Mission Nuestra Señora de la Purísima Concepción de Acuña (Mission Concepción) is another beauty, and it was our fourth mission to visit on this two-day trip.

Mission Concepción is the oldest, best-preserved stone church in the United States. Its overall design is in the shape of a crucifix, and the vaulted roof has a dome. Two identical bell towers mark the entrance.  On the day we visited, seismologists were examining the church's walls for stability and/or movement; hence, you see the Genie (above) sort of marring my photo!  The walls of limestone are four feet thick, but the church retains the highest level of original colonial-era materials of any of the mission churches and is in very good condition overall.

This handsome stone church took about 15 years to build, and was dedicated in 1755. It appears very much today as it did over two centuries ago. Due to the fact that it was built directly on bedrock, it never lost its roof, or its integrity. It remains the least restored of the colonial structures within the Park.

Very little is known about the Franciscan friars and their role in the establishment of 18th century San Antonio. The surviving records fall short of revealing a true narrative of life in the Missions, either for the indigenous people that provided the labor to build them, or the Spaniards who brought their government and religion with them.  Or, more especially ...

... how the Franciscans could build a church that aligns precisely every year at 6:30pm on August 15th -- the Feast of the Assumption of Mary -- with a rare double illumination.  As the late summer sun arcs across the horizon, rays of light will pass through two windows on the mission’s western wall, one illuminating the face of Mary, as she is depicted in the painting of the Immaculate Conception that hangs behind the altar on the sanctuary wall (above).  At the same moment the face of Mary is illuminated, a second ray of light will illuminate the sanctuary floor at its center below the dome. As Jimmy and I entered the church, a docent was talking to two tourists about this double solar illumination.  We sat down in a pew and listened, and his audience grew.  He spoke so eloquently.  I discovered the photo below posted on the church bulletin board.  Jimmy and I found the whole subject fascinating.

Every year, hundreds of people of all faiths flock to witness this extraordinary spectacle. “Life was so harsh in 1731 when the mission was first planned, it really is a miracle that the people back then were able to survive, to design and build the missions, and to engineer this double solar illumination."

I know I've used the word unrestored or the like more than once, but park brochures and links stress it:  that Mission Concepción is the oldest unrestored stone church in America. In its heyday, colorful geometric designs covered its surface, but the patterns have long since faded or been worn away.  As you see, the roof is vaulted with a dome, and it is unretouched.  And, per above, recent research is suggesting a deliberate placement of windows to illuminate the main altar on specific feast days.

Monitoring crack movement.

Still amazed by what we learned at Mission Concepción, Jimmy and I strolled the grounds, stopping at this grotto to sit for a minute before going on to our next course of action, which was to be determined.  Meaning, what next?  It was a very warm day, after a cool morning start, and wearing jeans was a mistake on my part, but at least my feet were cool/ish in my sandals.  Four missions in two days have left us feeling thoroughly steeped in history.  I haven't mentioned a word about what religion did to the native population, and I won't now.  We were here to appreciate the beauty we saw.

More Missions, Wed, 3-11-19

Jimmy and I have both "done" San Antonio's famous River Walk, though at different times and with different people, so we weren't keen on redoing any part of that scene.  We were pleased, however, to learn the River Walk extended to the missions, which we could easily access from our site at Stinson Field.  We needed Smartie to visit both San José and Concepción missions, as they weren't within walking distance.  First:  Mission San José y San Miguel de Aguayo, founded on Feb 23rd, 1720 --

San José, as it became known, is the largest of the five missions.  Believe it or not, it was almost completely restored to its original design by the WPA in the 1930's.  At its height, the community contained about 350 Indian neophytes, sustained by extensive fields and herds of livestock. Viewed as the model among the Texas missions, San José gained a reputation as a major social and cultural center. It became known as the "Queen of the Missions," for its imposing complex of stone walls, bastions, granary. The magnificent church was completed by 1782.

Jimmy at one of the (what would have been) gated mission entrances.

Gorgeous yucca blossoms highlight the mission church.

I'd heard and read about Rosa's window and it is as beautiful as it's been described:  La Ventana de Rosa, the Rose Window.  There's a lot of speculation about the window, sculpted in 1775.  It's been the object of both legend and admiration and is considered one of the finest examples of baroque architecture in North America. The meaning behind the name is currently unknown, but legend has it named for Rosa, the betrothed of Juan Huizar who many believe created the window.  It did seem odd being placed on the church's south wall.

Jimmy, left, stands outside the church's main entrance.  Apparently our visit coincided with spring break week and lots of young people and parents with children were paying a visit to the missions, but we didn't encounter any crowding.  We liked seeing families Out and About together.

A most beauteous sanctuary.

Outside the north wall of Mission San José, next to the acequia that supplies its power, stands a gristmill. Built around 1794, this mill was the only water-powered mill in the area during the Spanish colonial period.  The Indians, with their corn-based diets, were slow to move from corn to wheat.  It was operational from 1794-1809, and restored in 2001.

A heavy outer wall was built around the main part of the mission, and "rooms" for 350 Indians were built into the walls.

Above, is my photo of an outdoor picture showing how the church was decorated centuries ago. Below is a (smidgen) reproduction of those fresco paintings that once covered the entire outer walls of the church.  It would have been stunning!

This dimly-lit area was an inside storage warehouse and granary.  You see the walls retain some decoration.

I discovered this little poem on one of the signboards.

I thought it significant for the mission we were touring.

Mission San José has become a lasting symbol throughout the centuries for the Spanish mission frontier in Texas. Indeed, these missions paved the way for the future city of San Antonio. Of course, descendants from the mission era reside in the area and maybe some attend the church, which continues to hold regular masses for the faithful in English and Spanish.

Missions - Tues afternoon, 3/12/2019

All we had to do was follow the "brown signs" (or tourist signs) to find the first mission we'd visit today.  Funny how you come into a region not knowing a whole lot about it ... it's just an overnight stop, doncha know, and then you discover there's much to see and do.  I suppose that's true of many areas in this ol' world.  The most I knew about Texas is it's wet in the East, dry in the West, swampy in the south, and if you're traveling I-10, it goes on forever!  Plus bad weather can strike any of these locales at any time!  Kidding, kind of ....

The Alamo was originally known as the Misión San Antonio de Valero, one of a chain of missions along the San Antonio River, but most people remember the Alamo as the site of a battle.  Four other missions from the 1700's survive the centuries, all of them in better shape than the Alamo.  The missions are a reminder of one of Spain's most successful attempts to extend its dominion northward from present-day Mexico.  (Collectively they form the largest concentration of Catholic missions in North America.)  Yet, neither Jimmy nor I knew they existed till today.  And each is close by Stinson Field (our Harvest Host site).  We've gone to several of California's Catholic missions and found them to be peaceful places, spiritual in feeling, never mind their aggressive pasts.  That feeling held true today. 

The old mission churches remain much the same, though some have faced necessary and benefited by TLC/restoration.  Espada church, above, was completed in 1756, and retains a singularly attractive appeal.  The façade, with its curious door, is original.

Simple.  Humble.  Tranquil.

The National Park Service has provided good informational signs about the ruins.  Some are the remains of a newer, bigger church that never got off the ground (so to speak), and the walls above were part of a school.

This radiant Redbud tree attests that spring is coming to San Antonio! 

From the mission, we drove a short distance to see the acequia.  Franciscan missionaries and their Indian followers built a dam, irrigation ditch, and aqueduct ... completed in 1740, the acequia diverted river water into an acequia madre (mother ditch). It's still in operation, still has water flowing in it, but now plays a secondary role beside a modern dam.  

Next we drove to Mission San Juan (seen in the background, above).  The church wasn't open (it was after 5pm), but we strolled the grounds, reading the signs and studying the designs and ruins.

The bells will peal, reminding the faithful.

Fragrant yuccas are blooming in San Antonio.  It's all but impossible for me to sniff a blossom, 'cause I'd be stabbed a hundred times by the sword-like leaves.  I'll leave you here.  For anyone who wants to read more about the missions, Google has plenty of info.  We returned to Tergel, fixed dinner, and enjoyed a quiet evening, windows wide open, waiting for rain.

But wait, will we see more missions tomorrow?

Yes, it is a snorkeler's paradise! Saturday, 10/04/14

One of the outfits the hotel concierge recommended was SeaQuest Snorkeling Adventure, at Kealakekua Bay.  The 1933 catchy tune, "I want to go back to my little grass shack on Kealakekua, Hawai'i," refers to the same bay. (Guess what's been rambling around in my brain ever since? ... arraugh!) They offered a Deluxe Morning Adventure package that included exploring both the Captain Cook Monument and Place of Refuge (Honaunau) Bays, as well as sea caves and lava tubes. We signed up, and drove about an hour south of our condo early Saturday morning to meet the boat.

 

On the path to join the snorkeling group at the boat.

I think we were 13 adventurers, plus Captain Dave and his First Mate, Vickie.

 

Heading out of the bay.

 

My Captain ... loves being in or on the water!  Especially clear, warm water like this.

 

Didn't quite catch the Spinner Dolphin "spinning," (tho we saw it),

but I caught one leaping!

Spinner dolphins are small (and cute).

A pod frequents Kealakekua Bay; we saw lots today.

Our first adventure in the water was at Pu'uhonua O Honaunau, a National Historic Site, which is also known as Place of Refuge, on the other side of this peninsula.  There's quite a history here.  The sky is hazy, as you can see, from VOG (a nasty volcano fog) from continuously erupting Kilauea.

In the water, suited up with snorkeling gear, and feeling brave as I eased my face into the water.  I did it. One look at the marine life, and all was well.

I floated into a school of black triggerfish (black durgon or Humuhumu'ele'ele in Hawaiian), gliding along with them alone in the ocean for several minutes, feeling as though I was in my own private aquarium.  Absolutely wonderful.  They're much larger than the one (above, left) appears. 

We actually saw much more, urchins and a spotted sea cucumber and colorful fish of every description, but our GoPro camera didn't capture clear images in deeper reef waters. A highlight was seeing a dark Octopus scooting along the sea floor, with a parrot fish harassing it (?). I saw it discharge ink and the parrot fish moved away.  I motioned to Jimmy to "come see," and when I turned around, the Octopus had disappeared... till I saw movement ... and it had camouflaged itself into the exact color of the coral. Then it dropped into a cleft in the reef.  Cool beans!

After approximately 45 minutes,

it was back in the boat and on to Kealakekua Bay.

Jimmy was smart to apply another round of sunscreen.

Captain Cook's Monument.  You can't drive to this one.  Due to its remote location, it's only accessible by water or a hiking trail.  Great place to snorkel.  Prior to entering the water, Capt'n Dave reminded us to not touch anything, not marine life, nor could we climb out of the water to the monument.  Too many irresponsible people step on fragile coral and disrespect rules designed to protect the reef.  Boo hiss on "that's for you to obey, not me" attitude.  It seems to be rampant everywhere.

And if you're lucky, you'll see a Green Sea Turtle!

We were on or in the water from 8am till Noon and really enjoyed our snorkeling adventure.  Captain Dave was personable, knew everybody's name in minutes, and told one joke after another, most of them groaners.  I did like the following bit:  I watched a sea bird skim the water off to our starboard side, and asked him if he knew what it was.  He said it was a Masked Booby.  And added, "If you see one, be sure to look for another.  Boobies travel in pairs!"  Groan!  I looked it up in my bird book when we got back to the condo. Capt'n Dave was right!  About both!