On the move ... 10/19-20/26

 

In order to see so much of Patagonia, the group has to travel, and today we'd leave scenic Chiloé Island and fly to Punta Arenas, at the southern tip of Chile.  Jimmy and I spent time in this small city back in 2013 (click here to read about it) and were looking forward to visiting again.  Unfortunately, we wouldn't have time for more than a quick walk to the Strait of Magellan because we'd head overland to Torres del Paine (oh boy!) the next morning.

As we crossed the Chacao Channel, I zoomed in for this pic of Punta Tres Cruces Lighthouse located at the Northeastern tip of Chiloé Island.  I like the white tower with its red horizontal band.  Wish we could've climbed the steps.

For two people who knew nothing about Chiloé Island beforehand, we came to realize how lovely it would be to spend a summer's month here.  It's perfectly laid-back, not too big, with plenty to see and do.

One thing we will miss in Castro is our Enjoy Hotel room with its huge floor-to-ceiling window overlooking the wide river, watching the waterfowl and all manner of boats, clouds and mists and sunrises.

Waiting for the ferry, we watched the Black-necked Swan with cygnets for a long time and at the shore we spotted these Hudsonian Godwits looking for some tasty morsels.  I snapped a pic of a Dark-bellied Cinclodes (bird) camouflaged in the shoreline rocks, but -- so help me -- I couldn't find the durn thing later on the computer.

On our way to Puerto Montt airport, look at the character we found grazing roadside -- a Pudu, the world's smallest deer, about the size of a small dog.  Kinda reminded me of a pig, no offence to the Pudu.  Mary V's photo.  Mine sucked.

A two-hour flight, and we are here!  Yes, it was chilly (in Chile) 😁And, of course, windy.

It's a wonder the Neotropic cormorants don't collapse

the rickety wooden pier on the Strait of Magellan!

I was surprised when the bus pulled up to Jose Nogueira Hotel -- a fantastic boutique hotel, and I have a picture of it taken while on a walkabout in 2013.  A true mansion, it's one of the oldest buildings in Punta Arenas.  So cool.  More déjà vu -- the group had a tasty dinner at La Luna, a restaurant Jimmy and I patronized back then!

Magellan monument, without any "guard" dogs.

We began our overland journey after breakfast, back on the bus.  Before long we were spotting sights you'd never see in the US.  Our bus driver was the best at finding a bird or animal in a tree or on a hill and he'd tap the brakes, a signal to everyone that something special had been spotted.  He'd pull off the road.

Like a family of Lesser Rheas, top left, moseying over the fields, and galloping Guanacos.  A beautiful Chilean gray fox appeared next to a row of shrubs and moved into the open (for a photo op), and more herds of Guanacos, lots and lots of them.  We also saw pink Flamingos and even a white Flamingo.  And ... we saw Andean Condors, but, sorry, lousy pics.

The steppe landscape began to change, and Torres del Paine's rugged mountains came into view.

Yay, a long drive, but we have arrived!

Excited to be here!

Big ol' buzzy on Sand Calafate.

I wish we could've been closer or not have to take a pic thru the window, but nobody wanted to risk opening the bus door and have it fly.  Get a load of this Black-chested buzzard eagle!  Wow, who's ever heard of this guy!

Getting ready for a two-mile hike in the park.  Everyone was layered, prepared for cold and wet.  Turns out we didn't need all the layers (some, yes), and while clouds hovered and gray prevailed, no rain fell. That's Javi, our fearless leader, in the yellow jacket. Our local guide (my brain has erased his name) provided historical and geological info, much appreciated.  Glaciers played a major role in shaping Torres del Paine. 

Simply wonderful hike.  Some walked fast.  Picture-takers like me lagged behind.  Who wants to rush through this once-in-a-lifetime beautiful landscape?

Guanaco Bush -- Patagonia’s Scarlet Cushion Shrub, native to the Patagonian steppe of southern Chile-- was all a-bloom, turning the hillsides a fiery red.

Up/down on the single-track path.

Likely Guanaco bones from a Puma kill.  Pumas are the only critter we did not see on this trip.

We stop to take photos.

Somewhat cloudy view of Cuernos del Paine (The Horns of Paine), Torres del Paine Nat' Park.

Stragglers on the path.  Awesome.

The lake colors!

A couple of Rufous-sided Sparrows, one hovering, left, and Austral Negrito, right.  

We'll be spending two nights at Lago Grey Hotel on the shores of Grey Lake in Torres del Paine NP.  Did I see an iceberg while waiting in the hotel lobby?  Yes, I did!  Surprise!  Our rooms are like cabins, all connected by a wooden boardwalk.  Tomorrow?  I know it'll be fantastic!

  

Sisters together! to June 4, 2026

 

Air travel ain't what it used to be!  Expensive, cramped (even if you pay for extra room) and not much fun these days.  But I do enjoy looking down on puffy white clouds -- they're far more interesting seen from above than craning your neck looking up at them!  Like rounded piles of soapsuds, fragile and cushiony, these same clouds can create mighty bumpy conditions when the plane plows through them.  Anyhoot, Nannie picked me up in one piece at Baltimore's (BWI) airport Tuesday evening, and we'll commence a week's worth of fun, games, and happy memories!  Oh boy!

Wednesday was catch-up day, walking the North Beach boardwalk/pier, cooking Nannie's famous spinach quiche, and watching Remarkably Bright Creatures on Netflix that evening.  A sweet day for us.

It was decided to drive down to Point Lookout St Pk on Thursday -- where the Potomac River meets Chesapeake Bay, roughly 60 miles south of her house -- new territory for both of us.

The peninsula is surrounded by water, of course.

Photo of Lake Conoy.

Every lighthouse is different.  No need for this one to be TALL, just visible in this area with a long maritime history and many recorded shipwrecks.

Built in 1830, and expanded in 1883,

with the light raised to 41 ft above sea level.

In 1965 an automated light was built on a sandbar, dead center of the pic (enlarge to see it), and Point Lookout St Pk was established.  The lighthouse light was extinguished for the last time on Jan 11, 1966, and the Light Station was turned over to the US Navy.

The cost to get in the state park was three bucks and we could tour the grounds and lighthouse, including up into the "tower."  You just know we had to climb up there, crawling through that tiny opening.

Did it!  You see the opening at my feet.

It was hot inside; we didn't linger.

And back down!

We walked and walked and walked, including looking for sea glass and shells on the Chesapeake side of the grounds (Nannie found a piece).  The sun was hot and there was no shade to be had.

I was surprised to see Prickly Pear cacti here, in bloom, no less!

Not easy to see much detail, but if you enlarge the pic, maybe you can make sense of it.  In 1862, the grounds served as a port, hospital, garrison, and prisoner of war camp for the Union Army during the Civil War. Thousands of soldiers perished due to harsh conditions in the marshes and swamps of the peninsula.  We didn't tour the cemetery.

Civil war barracks, redoubts, etc.

This area offered shade, for which we were grateful, as the day was full-on heat.  Above and below, we walked the Civil War era grounds.  Now, hungry and our water bottles emptied, we headed for the park entrance and ranger station.

We refilled those water bottles and met the cutest, most personable Diamondback Terrapin, below.

No, he's not looking for food, he just wants to interact with people.  He followed our hands/fingers all around his tank.  He's been lovingly cared for by the rangers for over eight years.  His name is Seamus, and isn't he pretty?  Or I guess I should say handsome.  The beloved Diamondback Terrapin is Maryland's official state reptile.  Now, you, too, know. 

I like taking pics of these old barns in the area.  Nannie and I left the park, trying to find a picnic table in the shade where we could eat our lunch, but no go, so we ate in the car -- in the shade of a fine old tree.  We both enjoyed our excursion to the lighthouse and didn't get home till 4:30!  We have a tendency to go check out various side roads, also. 😊

Back at the house, here's a shot of one of North Beach's Osprey's atop a nest near the pier.  We hear the couple has two chicks in the nest, hallelujah!

Tomorrow we'll do something different.  Stay tuned.

Lycian Way -- 9/26/25

 

Another gorgeous sunny, hot day on the Turquoise Coast.  Today our boat would drop anchor in a different sheltered cove, and we'd transfer by dingy to the shore.  Our aim was to hike part of the Lycian Trail that stretches some 320 miles along Turkey's Mediterranean coast.  While not as famous as the Camino, this trail, nevertheless, has plenty of through-hikers.  We'd tackle a small section, with a shepherd's house as our destination.

Our two-mast ship, anchored second from right.

The terrain was challenging, yes, but uphill -- and it was uphill most of the way -- in the heat (and humidity) was a real slog.  I thought about turning back at the halfway point, but I endured.  One of our group did say, "enough," and she returned to the boat.

Sometimes trees provided shade on the trail, which was heavenly.  Above is an old goat-herder's hut -- over many, many years, goat herders have frequented this area.

This is a new one!  I spotted lots of these:  Sea Squill.

Aren't they cool?

The route is part hiking trail, donkey trail, and ancient Roman roads.  We had to step carefully.  Ulaş forgot his hat and his face is already red from heat and exertion.  Glad we had our hiking poles. Hey, I'm in this photo!

The trail is named for Lycia, an ancient region in Anatolia from 15–14th centuries BC.  I just know that every step we take on this Turkey trip of ours is rife with historical significance.  Above are building remnants from which period exactly, I don't know, but there isn't much left.  In short:  they're old.

I put a red x between a corral (by the three trees) and a cistern, both of which you can barely make out from this distance.

Heading down to the cistern, at right.

I'm sorry I do not remember when this cistern was built, but I can tell you it was long, long ago, like one or two thousand years ago.  And ... it had fresh water inside!  We didn't touch it (and definitely didn't taste it), but it looked cool and plentiful.  Mark has stepped into the entrance (look closely) and you might also notice an old bucket nearby.

Just to confirm we were in the middle of nowhere, this sign appeared at a junction of foot paths.  Amazing.  Everyone marveled at this!

We arrived at the shepherd's place, which wasn't too far from the cistern.  He had homemade wares for sale in this wisteria-shaded pavilion.  He was kind enough to serve mini glasses of sage tea.  Though we were hot and not really interested in a hot drink, the tea hit the spot.  It's custom in this country to serve a welcome drink to visitors.  A nice custom.  Several of us bought small things.

Ulaş stands by the shepherd, Mutlu, and his wife.  They have forty goats, several cows and horses and a donkey or two.  They grow their own herbs and a garden full of veggies and flowers, fruit trees, and so forth.  But, as a pampered American, all I can say is, what a life.  They're pretty isolated. 

They have solar panels, a fridge and TV, and are comfortable enough.  Quail hunting season had begun and some of the hunters were also stopping here, plucking feathers out near the cow pen, where the guy in the blue shirt is headed.

Trekking back down to the boat.  Very carefully.  Slick rocks.

Whoooeee, almost "home!"  Hi Jimmy!

Yessiree, the water is clear.  I spied a fishie!

As the boat motored to our next destination, I stood at the rail watching the scenery.  Seemed as though I saw a number of good-sized caves in the limestone.  It's a beautiful coastline.

Holy Mackerel! Speaking of fishies, Ulaş had a fishing line dragging behind the boat and caught tonight's dinner!

Passing by Dalyan Light (holey island!)

on the way to our mooring near Ekincik Cove.

As soon as we were tied to the shore (and anchored), most of us donned our bathing suits -- we couldn't wait to get in the water.  Jimmy and I tried goggles and masks, too, this day, and saw some small fishies, but not much else to see underwater.  Rocky.  Simply being in the water was FINE!

One fish wouldn't feed this crowd!  So a quick trip was made to a store (somewhere?) and more supplies brought in to supplement the lone mackerel -- chicken thighs and lamb kebabs.  Captain Ali, above, is happily manning the grill.

We ate well, too.  Actually everybody had a taste of the mackerel, and I attest -- it was delish.  The yellow stuff?  We had yogurt every-which-a-way while on board, and this batch had shredded carrots in it.  Some liked it, some not.

Quite a day for us.  Quite a trip for us!