Showing posts with label Karanac. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Karanac. Show all posts

20191008

Karanac, Wednesday, 9/11/19


Although this is a really quiet neck of the world, I wore earplugs to bed, because I know, I KNOW, roosters like to fire up around 4am (if they wait that long to "introduce the dawn").  Even through earplugs, I could hear them faintly at 4am, like an announcement:  Cock-a-doodle-do, dawn is coming (hours away!).  That's okay, it wasn't annoying.  Nevertheless, I was up early anyway.  With Jimmy sleeping, I eased out before sunrise to savor the perfect peace that comes before the world awakens.  I was surprised to see Ibby out, too, doing the same thing.


I don't know if we decided to go for a walk, or if the walking just happened, but we made our way outside the gate and onto the narrow sidewalk, and we kept on going.  We looked at houses, talked about styles and yards, gazed at gardens, and ambled along.  Before long, the sun peeked over the horizon and through the trees.


Clockwise from top left:  1884, 1897, 1901, 1902, and 1899

Karanac is a small multi-ethnic community in far eastern Croatia (not far from the Hungarian border), with Croats, Hungarians, Serbs, Germans and Gypsies, according to a handout we received, with three churches (Catholic, Orthodox, and Reformed Protestant).  You see a few houses above, representative of the entire town, all of them neat and tidy, and many boast beautiful and productive gardens.  This is certainly a rural area; Karanac's population is only 1065.   


Not sure what it says,
but the tall poster guy might be welcoming people to Karanac!


Back at the house, breakfast was underway, and it was a group effort.  Everyone helped; very democratic!  Lilly returned to show us how to unmold yesterday's cheese (that we made), which is what Ibby is doing, above.  You see our little soft cheeses, below.  I tell you they were pretty tasty, altho I preferred the one without the hot pepper bits.  Added to the cheeses were fry bread, eggs, dried meats, jams, juices, fresh sliced tomatoes, cucumbers, and probably more that I'm forgetting.  We ate well, and when we were finished, we carried our empty plates to the tiny kitchen.




Carrying the fry bread to the tables.


Afterward, the group convened outside to chop veggies that will go into bean pots for our lunch, using the beans we shelled yesterday that were soaked overnight.  Carrots, parsnips, potatoes, onions, and then the leftover debris went into the compost pile. 


Check out these dudes!


Homemade tomato juice was another ingredient, and a tablespoon or so of Goca's own paprika.  She put it in large pots on a fire that reached only one side of the pots.  You see the finished product in my lunch bowl.  Truly, it was delicious. 


Hope springs eternal, you know.  Mario is slicing meat for lunch.  Look who's hoping some of that meat will accidentally hit the bricks!  Mom and junior.


While the pots simmered on the open fire, Daniel, the pottery master, came to his studio onsite to give the group of 14 a demonstration on how to use the wheel.  He uses local clay, and, oh, he made it look so easy!  In a matter of minutes, he produced the pretty bowl, bottom right.  He gave us a chance to make something crafty, too.  I chose not to ('cause working with clay turns my hands into the Sahara Desert).  It was fun watching the others as each earnestly made his/her own interpretation of art.


Bernice and Jimmy are visible at left, Renee and Suzanne at right.


Here you see their creations.
Jimmy's boots are second from left, bottom row.


Chores finished, art lesson over, it was time for more fun.  Mario hopped on a tractor of sorts, with a cart attached and drove down the road a bit.  Dennis (the "Mennace") in apron, above, hopped in the cart and together they "roared" through town, kinda!  Dennis is a first-rate entertainer, loves to be around people and likes to make them happy.  He's a natural, lovable clown.  


Ah, the other doggie, who might spend all day like this, getting a belly rub.


It was time for a group walkabout, beginning under spreading chestnut trees, to learn and discover a thing or two.  We didn't go far, just made a large block, past neighbors' homes, in front of the Catholic church, and out into the mown fields.  With the influx of OAT and groups like ours, my thought is the village is much better off economically.  Lilly sells her cheeses, and she and Goca also make their own soaps, and many of us bought a personalized chunk or two.  I made sure to get a baggie of Goca and Dennis' fresh paprika.  Jimmy and I like being a part of a community like this, even if it's only in a small way.




Now we know what Hazelnut trees look like.


Part of a fairly good-sized flock of chickens on the farmstead.


Making my way toward our room.
Time to gather our belongings.


Lunch was a great success; our bean and veggie stew passed the "excellent" test.  (I'm going to  try to duplicate it at home).  After we ate, it was time to bid our hosts thank you and adios.  Dennis is a menace, and he loves his role as head of this enterprising family.  Goca is hard-working and a sweet woman, happy with her choices (I think).  Together they make quite a team (married 29 years, and you should've heard the stories about that!).  


A photo of a group picture.  L-R: back row:  Jimmy, Mario, Melissa, Ibby, Jack, Renee and Don.  Front, Ronnie, me, Goca, Neel, Courtney, Ann, Bernice, Susan, and Suzanne.  Speaking for myself and Jimmy (and possibly for the group), we had a wonderful time in the country.  Thanks for everything, Dennis and Goca.  May you continue to prosper and enjoy life.

Ahhh, back on the bus around 1/ish heading overland for Zagreb, Croatia's modern capital.  We're also looking forward to seeing this city ... Mario says we'll like it.  He's prejudiced, though, it's his home, but I suspect he's right.  We'll like it.

20191006

To the country! Tuesday, 9/10/19


This morning we departed Sarajevo, traveling by bus overland to the easternmost province of Croatia called Slavonia.  It would be a long day on the bus, broken by lunch at Royal village Kotromanicevo, "representing a truly restful stop on the main road from Croatia,  enjoyment in old royal ambience and old architecture of Bosnian kings."  Yes, it was all that, and more.  A welcome break.


We got a fairly early start (8:30/ish) for the roughly 200-mile journey, traveling on good highways, two-lane winding roads, through tunnels (one unfinished), scenic countryside, and the town of Zenica, Bosnia, above, where ash clouds dominate the sky, many blaming ArcellorMittal, the global steel giant.  Bosnia suffers from some of the world’s highest levels of air pollution, with Zenica among the worst affected.  We would soon gladly cross the border into Croatia.


Hah!  How about driving into a tunnel that was being widened at the same time?  Not for the faint of heart, but we survived!


This is Kotromanicevo, where we ate lunch featuring traditional cuisine of the Doboj region, and then played on their one-acre property. It felt good to get out after eating and walk around ... visit the horses, a goat, geese, and so on, check out the rustic buildings and playground ....






Nobody went down the slide ...


... but one of us tried the teeter-totter!


In Croatia, we passed cornfield after cornfield growing in an obviously fertile agricultural belt.  I saw a number of raptors like the one above, flying low, but I'm not sure what it is  Looks like a black kite.

 * * * * *


This modest house in Karanac was our destination.  It's much bigger than it appears in the picture.  A simple farmstead, with country-style guest rooms (below), each with it's own private bath.  Nothing fancy, but very cozy.  A quiet, peaceful place, till the chickens and roosters got going!  




Pots, pans, and tools, lots of different items for everyday use,
plus those of an older time.


Peppers!  Sweet and hot peppers drying in the sun made everyone in our group of 14 smile.  It's just makes you feel happy.  We eyed their garden, as well, which was still full of tomatoes and squashes into September.  This is the home and garden of Goca and "Dennis the Mennace," and their two grown dogs, one puppy and a kitty.  Oh, and lots of chickens.  Not only are we encouraged to step in and help, we're expected to!  We shelled dried beans for tomorrow's dinner.  Some helped Goca in the kitchen.  I was in seventh heaven, out of the city, and on the farm.  The feeling must have been contagious, 'cause there were lots of cheerful, relaxed faces.


They grow much of their food.  Preserve a lot of it.
Sell what they can.


Courtney was also in seventh heaven,
surrounded by furry creatures.


A neighbor named Lilly came in to teach us how to make soft cheese from fresh raw milk  We'd make two kinds, one with garlic and parsley and the other had bits of red pepper in it, mixed with something else (I forget).  Lilly asked for volunteers and most of us responded to assist in one phase or another.  Lilly was an animated teacher (never mind the picture) and we had a good time.  Tomorrow morning we'd have the cheese for breakfast.  Also above, Jimmy and Neel give a hand to make cheese.


Colorful sunset.

Finally, this evening, the group would split and we'd walk a few doors away to have dinner with neighbors.  I didn't write down their names, but our hosts were delightful.  Mario came with us and helped translate when the English/Croatian hit a stalemate.  They're lovely people who suffered greatly in the 1991-1995 war, including losing their home for a number of years, but they hold no rancor.  We listened, curious at times, asked questions, and came away with an appreciation for their tolerance and compassion.  It felt good to connect.




Dinner was delicious!


Imagine our surprise to see a Golden State Warriors poster on the dining room wall!  When we exclaimed over it, our host disappeared and returned with the above!  He's quite a fan, and he was ecstatic when one of their other guests sent him these items.


After dinner photo:
L-R:  Ibby, Bernice, our host, Jimmy, me, hostess, Ronnie, and Neel.

What a lovely, lovely time!  Tomorrow morning should be special, all of us making breakfast and tasting our homemade cheese.  Maybe enjoying the sunrise over the farmstead.  Looking forward to the dawn!