Up and atem early, and on the coach by 7am for a full-day excursion to the City of Kotor in Montenegro. Our group leader, Mario, warned us that the bus trip would be about two-and-a-half hours and could involve a lengthy border crossing (as in, sit and wait). But he also assured us that the ride would be filled with dramatic coastline views, dotted with historic cities. We were up for it.
Looking back to Dubrovnik.
We were advised to put our cameras away at any Customs crossings, but I snuck in the one above. CRNA GORA: Montenegro. Hmmm, can't use our Kuna currency here. Montenegro is the only country outside the European Union that is using the EURO. Credit cards work, though, if we didn't want to exchange money.
Yes, we sat for roughly 45 minutes in a line of big buses like ours, while the border guards were sitting at a picnic table drinking coffee. At least a restroom was available (um, I've been in better, but any port in a storm), and most took advantage. Once in Montenegro, the bus drove us to the ancient village of Perast.
Yes, we sat for roughly 45 minutes in a line of big buses like ours, while the border guards were sitting at a picnic table drinking coffee. At least a restroom was available (um, I've been in better, but any port in a storm), and most took advantage. Once in Montenegro, the bus drove us to the ancient village of Perast.
There, we boarded the private, small boat (above) for an hour-long cruise in the Bay of Kotor. We had wonderful scenic views all over the bay. It was delightful cruising. Coolish, as well.
The closer we got to Montenegro, the murkier the air became. I suspect the fire atop yonder mountain was at least partially responsible for the poor A/Q. No one seemed concerned about the fire, but then I have to remember I'm not in California right now. Check out that tourist boat!
Above and below. We circled two islets off Perast, but didn't land on either. First was Our Lady of the Rocks -- an artificial island with quite a history. According to legend, the islet was made over the centuries by local seamen who kept an ancient oath after finding the icon of Madonna and Child on the rock in the sea on July 22, 1452. Upon returning from each successful voyage, they laid a rock in the Bay. Over time, the islet gradually emerged from the sea. The custom of throwing rocks into the sea is alive even nowadays. Every year on the sunset of July 22, an event called fašinada in the local dialect, takes place when local residents take their boats and throw rocks into the sea, widening the surface of the island.
The second, smaller one rises from a natural reef -- Sveti Djordje (St George Island). It houses a Benedictine Monastery, but it has a sad history involving lovers (of course) back in 1813 when Napoleon occupied the area. Read it here if you'd like. Visitors are not welcome on this island.
The spire of St Nicholas Church in Perast stands tall.
Each town presents such a picturesque face.
Each town presents such a picturesque face.
So far ... so good! 💗
Talk about lonesome! Apparently there used to be an upper and a lower town. Eventually the upper town was abandoned as the lower one flourished. A trail will take you up to the church which is no longer in use.
Our first view of Kotor, which looked mighty snug tucked in between the head of the bay and the base of the mountains. Part of the city's defense wall that encircles it can be seen at right, sweeping up the mountain. Kotor was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979, for its architecture stretching back to the Middle Ages, and its “harmonious integration to the cultivated terraced landscape on the slopes of high rocky hills."
Our local guide, Tomo, pointed out that this Mediterranean Old Town is considered to be one of the most well-preserved medieval city centers on the Adriatic; it's also very small. In the square, we stopped in front of the Pima Palace, built after the 1667 earthquake and reconstructed after a more recent quake in 1979. They do a good job on reconstructing.
Rather than stand in the hot sun, I wandered across the square to what looked like a seriously old, tiny church, and it was: St Luke's Church, a Serbian Orthodox, from 1195. Not a typo. Beautiful inside.
Below the clock tower, Jimmy demonstrates the Pillar of Shame!
It's a shame his shoes clash with his shirt!
It's a shame his shoes clash with his shirt!
After the Old Town tour, we walked to a nearby outdoor market for a sampling of the area's specialties. Fresh bread, four kinds of cheeses, prosciutto and other dried meats, plus wine or sparkling water. Everywhere we go, it seems we're feted with local wines and homemade brandies. The food was delicious and 14 people made it disappear really fast!
Which brings us to lunchtime. Not in the OAT program, lunch was on our own, and people in the group scattered to various eateries. Jimmy and I, Bernice and Ibby hunted down a place called Trjeja (I think that's the name) and enjoyed an al fresco meal on their patio, shaded by a heavily laden grape arbor. Everyone agreed the lunch was delicious, but I didn't like mine very much. Seafood salad should have more than little squid-y things in it. Not every dish is a winner.
We didn't climb the city walls. It was too hot, and we would've had to rush, but in another time, Jimmy and I would've tackled 'em. They're steep. The earliest walls were built into the steep, rocky cliffs back in the 9th century to protect the town from invaders. They're mixed in with an array of ramparts, gates, churches, forts and bastions, and were added to over the years by whoever ran the city at the time until the 15th century, when they finally formed a full loop running up into the hillside. Despite the onslaught of time, invasions and earthquakes, they’re still remarkably well-preserved. You can see the wall snaking into the hills, follow it up as far as you can.
Nice to have such a large coach for 14 travelers, plus Mario. We can and do spread out, seldom in the same seat as before. Back across the border into Croatia, we arrived at the Hotel Lero about 6ish. Very neat day, but we were tired. Tomorrow will be our last day in Dubrovnik.
