Plaza Blanca, Tues, 6/30/26

 

We moved on down the road, south approx 50 miles, to our next campsite at Ghost Ranch, a place made famous by artist, Georgia O'Keeffe.  Owing to our country's upcoming 250th anniversary and the ubiquitous July 4th holiday, I booked us a site for six days -- that way we wouldn't have to scramble to find a campground over one of the busiest times of the year.  Hallelujah, that meant we could do a whole lot of exploring nearby.

Before leaving home, I reserved a day at Plaza Blanca in Abiquiu NM, as I knew we'd want to hike amid such a geological marvel.  Nestled within Dar al Islam property, Plaza Blanca is an amazing 200 acres renowned for its dramatic white cliffs, quiet canyons, and ethereal desert beauty.  Georgia O'Keeffe had a deep connection to Plaza Blanca, and called it "The White Place."  Their website said we could also visit the mosque if we chose, but today the road to the mosque was closed.

Hold the ice, please.

Our first glance here elicited plenty of Wows! and Holy Cows!  And this was the tip of the iceberg, so to speak, of spires, columns, hoodoos, and plain ol' unusual rock formations.  Lots of them!

We followed a downhill trail to this first grouping.  We were sure we'd seen formations like these in other countries -- Turkey came to mind, and a little while later, Jordan.

Some look smooth, others quite jagged.  You'll see either me or Jimmy in many of these pics to give you an idea of the scope of Plaza Blanca, its rocks.  I trudged up to the base of the "guy" on the left.  Maybe he looks like Bert of Bert and Ernie fame?  Or Yogi Bear?

That thing wouldn't budge.

Many Cholla were blooming.

Jimmy!  Get away from those thorns, they bite! 

Can you believe your eyes?  Behind Jimmy is the craziest, most jaw-dropping pile of tortuous rock ever.  Up close it's even more so.

This is the one that reminded us somewhat of Jordan's Petra, with its columns, but those were carved and these are natural.  Still, we saw similarities.

We walked and walked, much of it in an arroyo, curving further in the canyon and away from where we began.  About the time you thought you'd reached the end, nope, more and then more formations were around the bend.

I spied the Desert Broomrape, top left, surprised to see it here.  Apache Plume, top right was a treat to see.  Sorry about the photo quality of Lewis's Woodpecker, bottom left, taken through the car window on the way, but it was a nice surprise, and bottom right, Saltcedar was flowering.

We were given an information sheet at Abiquiu VC, always good to stop at one. So, here's what we learned: The Abiquiu Formation is light colored owing to its high content of silica-rich volcanic ash, pumice and crystals of quartz and feldspar. The arroyo was filled with interesting rocks, and we were highly tempted to take a few home, but ... we resisted. Jimmy gives you a good idea of dimensions, above.

The sedimentary layers include shale, sandstone, and conglomerates.

Reaching high.

After we'd hiked a mile or more, and we were still surrounded by formations, I shot the above video.  When we arrived at Plaza Blanca, no one else was around.  Gradually, a few groups of two or three trickled in, but in a vast landscape like this, we didn't see people except one or twice to say hello.

A couple of good-sized Cottonwoods provided welcome shade.

I could've crawled through to the other side,

but, eh, no thanks!

As I moved close to the base of a formation where Junipers were (thinking I could "hop up" higher to peek into a cave), a hummingbird buzzed me.  Once, twice, three-four times, right up in my face.  Jimmy suggested that it may have thought I was a flower because of my colorful shirt.  Or perhaps I was too close to a nest?  Whichever, it was kinda cool.

A spiritual place, a magical place, a ruggedly beautiful and incredibly strange scene.  We could easily see why Ms O'Keeffe fell in love with the area.  The rest of the countryside is red-rock territory, so this "White Place," is all the more fascinating.

We could've gone on and on, but we'd had enough sun, so we turned around and made for the car.  The temperature was only 78, but the sun felt hot.  I'd left a cooler in the car with granola bars and Gatorade, and you know we downed it in record time.  (Of course, we each carry water with us.)

What a great excursion for us!

The Train, The Train! Sunday, 6/28/26

 

Oh yay!  We're here in Chama, NM, arriving Saturday at Rio Chama RV Park, and our campsite is right next to the river AND the train tracks.  It's a nice park, filled with tall shade trees, but everything looks so dry.  The wind has been fierce and still is.  Saturday's drive was no fun with the wind pushing ol' Tergel around like a toy.  I see online that the west is on fire and, by gum, that nasty wind is a real factor in those fires.  Anyhoot, we seem to be smoke-free in Chama.  We are grateful.

This is why we've come to Chama, to ride the scenic train!

A short walkabout at the RV park meant testing the Chama River's water temp.  The short answer is:  It's cold.  Clear, shallow and cold.  I didn't fall in.

After our walkabout, I was talking to Nannie on my cell when we heard the train whistle.  Of course, Jimmy and I ran to the trestle to watch 'er coming 'round the curve.  Here she comes!  We waved.  Oh heck, you know everybody waves!

Chama's elevation is over 7800 ft.  Luckily, we're not having any problem with altitude stuff, as this is our third or fourth day this high.  Living at 3200' helps, too.  I can tell you that moisturizing cream soaks in as though you've forgotten to use any for twenty years, and a half hour later your skin looks dry!

We were ready!  Jimmy sits at the Chama train station (photo op) Sunday morning, awaiting our friends, Sharon and Randy, and their son, his wife, and two little ones.  Our morning was chilly, 45 degrees, but the day will warm, and the sun is a-shining!

Randy had reserved a table for the four of us and a table for the kids in the Chama Limited.  Drinks and snacks were provided, and lunch will be served in Osier, Colorado.  The Cumbres & Toltec Scenic RR has two options.  Our choice is riding up and back 25.7 miles from Chama to Osier.  The other option is riding the train all the way to Antonito and taking a bus back to Chama.  We didn't want to do that.  Randy said the most scenic section is from Chama to Osier.

You'll have to trust me when I say the scenery is over-the-top spectacular.  I took a million pictures, but you only get to view a few.  Hah, as soon as the train pulled away from the station, Jimmy and I left the reserved table for the open cattle car, where we spent all our time.  It was too beautiful to stay inside.

Yes, uphill's produced some ugly black smoke, but the steam train is powered by oil, not coal, mainly due to coal embers being fire starters.  It's America's longest and highest narrow-gauge railroad, the line built in 1880.

We tried several times to line everyone up for a group photo.  Didn't happen.  Herding cats is easier.  I did manage this shot of Sharon and Randy and grandson, three-yr-old Christopher, who's wearing a train outfit and hat.  Randy is a true train buff.  I mentioned in my last post that he's volunteered/worked at this RR for two weeks every summer, for the past ten years.

This guy is another train buff! 

A road of sorts (or maybe more than one) meanders near the train tracks, and occasionally we'd have to cross the road, with the whistle a toot-toot-tootin'!  The tracks wind up, wrap around and over, do an almost complete turn-about, and continue up-up-up.  It was grand!

Till finally we achieved the summit!

Jimmy and Randy and Randy's daughter-in-law in the cattle car.

Look at that sky!

I laughed when I first saw what I called a "little putt-putt car" following our train.  See it, above, on the tracks as the train maneuvered Tanglefoot Curve?  I thought it was cute.  When I found out it always follows the train as a fire spotter, with a water tank behind, I changed my mind about it being funny.  If a spark occurs, the guy aboard the putt-putt car can take care of it immediately.

Randy and his son, Andrew (foreground).

This is one of those places where railroad families used to live through the winter. Fierce winter storms would leave snow drifts of 20 feet or more.  (no thanks)  Mostly no one lives full time up here. 

We were told a family reunion was going on where you see the vehicles upper left.  Jimmy and I couldn't figure out how they got there, although I see a dirt road in this picture.  They'd need four-wheel drive for sure.  The paved road was nowhere in sight.  The water is either Cascade Creek or Rio de Los Pinos.

Dudes.

Oh boy, a trestle!  This one is Cascade Trestle, highest bridge on the track -- 137' above Cascade Creek.  Everyone was hanging over the cattle car taking pictures.

Osier, Colorado, elevation 9,637', was our turn-around point.  And lunch -- a nice array of food, with turkey or meatloaf as the main course.  We picked turkey, and the lunch was actually quite good, including the tortilla soup.  Before the RR built its tracks here, a toll road (which was still faintly visible) connecting the Chama Valley with the San Luis Valley ran through this area.  After the RR was built, Osier continued as an important operating facility for coal and water.  And lunch.

On our return, after lunch, we got a better view of little putt-putt and his water tank.  You see he's following the train -- Tanglefoot Curve is quite a feat.  RR builders had to lay track in wide loops to gain 39' of elevation.

Jimmy and I have been to and inside the Donner Pass snow sheds in California.  Above is what's left of the C&T snow shed system.

We saw fields of Corn Lilies in bloom.  Whenever I've hiked in the Sierras, I've tried to catch glimpses of Corn Lilies and I'm either too early or too late.  Here, in all their glory, were thousands of blossoms.

Speaking of blooms -- how about that Yellow Columbine?  Also having a heyday are Green Genetians, aka Monument Plants, above right.  We saw LOTS.  Bottom left is another acre of Corn Lilies and at right are copious amounts of Lupines.  All, except the columbine, were taken from a moving and bouncing train.

I managed a few videos.  Give a listen to the one above and you'll hear how strong the wind was.  But listen to the end, please.

Haha, about the time the docent in the cattle car suggested we hold onto our hats at Windy Point, Jimmy's cap flew off into the Colorado landscape.  I hailed our car attendant and told her (jokingly) that Jimmy'd lost his hat, "and you know what that means."  She immediately went to the conductor and relayed the information so his hat could be picked up!  What I meant was that Jimmy would have to buy a new (RR) cap.

At the Chama station, the conductor approached Jimmy with his found cap!  He nearly fell over.  I think the message was relayed to the putt-putt guy who located his hat in the bushes of Colorado.  How cool is that!

The tall white stalks are the Monument Plants.  At a couple of places, the train journeyed through Aspen forests.  We mused about how stunning an autumn ride would be with golden Aspens decorating the hillsides.  The C&T RR operates from Memorial Day to Labor Day or thereabouts.  That's the other reason we're traveling in summer (not our usual MO).

Crossing the Lobato Trestle, second-highest bridge on the line at 100' above Wolf Creek.

Looking back at the trestle we just crossed.

Two very happy riders.  We did get too much sun, even with sunscreen on.  And we were exhausted when we rolled into the Chama station, probably from the sun and wind.  Randy and Sharon's grandkids seemed to love the ride and were no problem.  I told Jimmy that it didn't matter what else we did on this trip, and he agreed, "It don't get no better than this."  

Hah!  I captured a shot of Tergel just before the station, all snug in the tall trees.  Well, and that was our ride, from 11am to 5pm/ish.  Everything we hoped for, plus seeing friends -- worth its weight in gold.