Ah, Morocco! Sunday, 11/07/21

From the sea to the mountains to the sands of the Sahara, Morocco held me and Jimmy spellbound.  I've used the word "exotic" to describe both the country and the sights we saw, and even now, at home in California, we can recall a souk or a town or an area, and know that the word is singularly apt.  We truly enjoyed our journey, the diversity of the land and people, and their welcoming nature.  Strangers everywhere saying "welcome," with a smile and a hand over their hearts.

Morocco is an ancient land.  Its customs and its citizens steeped in history.  I once said to Bernice, "I feel like I'm traveling in the Time of Abraham."  I'm not even sure when that was, but I felt transported back in time more than once on this trip.  Morocco's big cities are modern, like US cities, except most have a medina tucked inside somewhere. 😊

We learned so much, about the country, its politics, womens rights, their education system, Berbers, Islam, and irrigation in the desert!  Learning is a good thing ... dispels myths and prejudices.

This is a Road Scholar map and our basic route, though we visited and/or stopped by many other towns.  You can see we covered quite a lot of ground.  Our personal map would look a tiny bit different, inasmuch as we four flew into Casablanca, and took the train to Rabat, making a full circuit of the country.  Forget Tangier, that wasn't part of the itinerary.  Yes, we rambled through the Volubilis ruins, as the man on the train suggested.

Now that we'd returned to Casablanca, we'd visit the only mosque a non-Muslim can enter, which is Hassan II Mosque.  We had an appointment to tour, but we were early enough that we could spend a few minutes at the ocean.

A long view of El Hank Lighthouse, which bears the name of the point where it was built.  At 167 feet, it's the highest lighthouse in Morocco.  It came into operation one hundred years ago.  We didn't go to it, so I'm not sure if it's open to the public.

Woohoo, American flag waving in the wind.  Netsy and Jan are posing with the flags, and the lighthouse in the distance.  We were all wearing jackets 'cause it wasn't all that warm!

And look at the Hassan II mosque's minaret -- at 689 ft, it's the world's second tallest minaret.  By contrast, the lighthouse is 167 ft.  "No building should be higher than a minaret."  Built by Moroccan artisans from all over the kingdom, it was completed in 1993.

The minaret is topped by a laser, the light from which is directed towards Mecca. The mosque stands on a promontory looking out to the Atlantic Ocean, built partially on land and partially over the ocean; worshippers can pray over the sea, but there is no glass floor looking into the sea. The walls are of hand-crafted marble and the roof is retractable. A maximum of 105,000 worshippers can gather together for prayer:  25,000 inside the mosque hall and another 80,000 on the mosque's outside ground.  I copied this from Wiki, because it's concise and relevant.  The building is huge; the entire complex is 22 acres.

Our group is walking toward the main entrance, but it's a long walk.  I can't stress how large this complex is.  A local guide met us inside, and she gave us a 45-minute tour.

A museum is attached.  We didn't go in.

Six thousand traditional Moroccan artisans worked for five years to create the abundant and beautiful mosaics, stone and marble floors and columns, sculpted plaster moldings, and carved and painted wood ceilings.  56 glass chandeliers by Murano grace the interior.  I could go on and on.  In the photo above, the main hall where the person is standing is for men, the mezzanine area above it is where women pray.

Above is the Mihrab, a semicircular niche in the wall that indicates the direction of the Kaaba in Mecca, and the direction that Muslims should face when praying.

Down a series of steps led us to the basement and the ablution room and a vast public hammam (bath) with its own entrance.  This area is for men; women bathe in a separate room.

Impressive?  100% for sure.  Like the Catholic cathedrals of Portugal and Spain, this mosque was over-the-top stunning.

Late afternoon, we checked into our hotel (no wifi for me), another of the Ibis chain, and marginal at best, but convenient.  It was just for one night anyway.  Since we had such a terrific farewell feast last night, we had a simpler dinner this evening at the hotel.

Oh, Jan wanted to go to "Rick's Cafe!"  If you've ever seen the 1942 movie, "Casablanca" with Ingrid Bergman and Humphrey Bogart, Rick's Cafe figures prominently.  Capitalizing on the movie's fame, a bar/restaurant with Rick's name came on the scene.  Jan didn't want to go alone (in a taxi), so Jimmy, who also not-so-secretly wanted to go to Rick's, went with her, and then Netsy tagged along.  Lots of fun for them, and Jimmy bought a T-shirt.

Bus photo, with glare.  Best I could do.

"Play it again, Sam."

Bags packed for travel, on Sunday morning, the 8th, we hailed a cab to the airport.  Thanks to United Airlines, our return home wasn't one day, it was two days.  Two long days of sitting in an airplane or an airport and no sleep.  We were grateful that, son, Matt, could pick us up Tuesday evening at the Sacramento Airport.  But, we survived and after a week at home, our jet lag was gone.

Another perk when traveling is making new friends.  We feel lucky to have spent the month with two great groups -- 15 of us in Portugal/Spain and 10 in Morocco. And it's always fun being Out and About with our best buds:  Bernice and Ibby.  Thanks go to our guides, Ulises in Portugal and Spain, and Nabil in Morocco, for shepherding us so expertly, and making these two Road Scholar programs a month-long continuation of fun, adventure, and learning.

Where to next, you ask?

Granada, Spain! to Saturday, 10/23/21

 

Here I sit in Fez, Morocco.  I have a few extra minutes to update you.  But first I need to get us out of Spain!  We had two nights in Granada, Spain.  And an entire morning at the Alhambra.  Granada translates to pomegranate in case you're wondering.  Happy to say pomegranates are ripe now, too!

On our way to Granada we stopped at the scenic mountain town of Alfarnatejo and visited the local co-op where olives are crushed into extra-virgin olive oil.  That was kinda fun.  We had a chance to taste both the plain and garlic-infused (my fav) with regional bread (pan cateto).  Our local guide was quite a character -- as in, he gave the crowd a good demo on olive-milling, followed by a walk to his aunt's (Virginia) for a yummy lunch in her house.  (He also wants to be mayor of the town 😃)  Thank goodness one of our group (Nanette) had enough Spanish to get us through lunch without much difficulty.

Me and the would-be mayor!

We endured a long day on the bus, but the drive was lovely with hills and mountains.  Herds of sheep.  And miles and miles of olive trees, both new and old, in neat rows.

My camera went to a weird setting on the drive day,

and most of my pics didn't turn out.

Friday was Granada day.  Granada's main fame comes from The Alhambra, a UNESCO heritage site.  Our local expert rattled off so much info about dynasties, kings, and dates, and who-done-who-in and who conquered what, that I gave up and started looking for birds.  I mean, the guy was fantastic, but I was overwhelmed.  Granada is more than a palace; it's an entire walled city within the City of Granada.  It's immense -- I believe we walked one million miles just touring -- royal apartments, forts, pavilions, barracks, and sumptuous gardens.

Above is a picture from Wiki, so you see its size.  We explored the Nasrid Palace, a renowned Islamic building in Europe that dates back to the 14th Century and is filled with Arabic inscriptions and geometric patterns.

Look at this Court of the Lions.  Commissioned by the Nasrid sultan Muhammed V, its construction began in the second period of his reign, between 1362 and 1391 AD.  Sorry about the picture quality, but this virtual paradise was overwhelming for a photo.  The lion fountain is center, surrounded by 124 marble columns.

Wearing light jackets to ward off the morning chill, we're standing in front of the central fountain.  It's been modified and restored several times over the centuries, and consists of a bowl-like marble basin surrounded by twelve lions, which face outwards and appear to support the bowl on their backs.  These lions were removed in 2007 for restoration on the premises while the fountain was restored in situ. The lions were put back in place in July 2012 after reconstruction of the traditional water flow system of the Court of the Lions.  Maybe more info than you want/need, but believe me, there's lots more!

Aha, I found a couple of wood pigeons.

Didn't know this.  Now I have to get the book:  Tales of the Alhambra.

The Alhambra was the icing on the cake of all the castles and palaces and fortresses we've experienced in the past two weeks.  So ... after touring, we walked down and down and down from the top on a treacherous cobblestone walkway that just about killed everybody's knees.  The carrot at the end was a wonderful and wow-oh-my-gosh-more-food?-farewell lunch!  What a grand adventure this Portugal/Spain trip has been.  Everyone leaving Spain had to get a COVID test, and that included us.  Darn tests are expensive!  The good news was NEGATIVE!

A little free time?  How about finding a laundromat and wash two weeks' worth of stinky clothes?  OK!  Now we'll be ready with clean clothes for another two weeks!

A small bye-bye Spain party at our hotel, a wrap-up if you will, was held Friday evening.  I can tell you that Jimmy and I made some great new friends on this trip.  We saw sights we never dreamed we'd see and stayed in beautiful hotels.  We saw the Atlantic from the opposite side of America.  Road Scholar always gives its travelers the best.  Hugs from Ulises, our good-lookin' guide.

Our flight to Morocco didn't leave till early Saturday evening, which gave Bernice and Ibby, Jimmy and me time to go on a final Granada walkabout.  That sweeper machine you see on the sidewalk above was cleaning the walk while people were Out and About!  

With so many cathedral choices, we picked one that offered an extra benefit (tho not planned).   A lady with a sweet voice practiced singing the Ave Maria while we were inside.  As we moved outside, we realized a wedding party was assembling.  What fun to watch the arrivals.  At least Bernice and I enjoyed seeing the wedding party garb.  We hung around till the bride arrived in a Vauxhall (car) and entered the church. 

Finally, a bite to eat before leaving for the airport.  This is the famous jamón ham being sliced thin for sandwiches.

With our bags packed, it was time to depart for the airport.  With four people and plenty of luggage, we'd arranged for a "big" taxi to pick us up at the hotel.  As the driver wheeled thru the streets, Bernice wanted to make sure he understood we needed to go to the Malaga (ma-la-ga) airport, NOT Granada.  Good thing, too!  He was on his way to the wrong airport.  Malaga was an hour-and-a-half away, but the only one to fly to Casablanca.  Of course he didn't speak English.  He called his office and got a hold of someone who had enough English to tell us the price would be 200 Euros (take it or leave it), and, so, we agreed.

All's well that ends well.  Our flight was nearly an hour delayed, but the pilot seemed to make up some of the time.  And when we arrived in Casablanca, got our luggage and made it through customs, we emerged from the airport to see a man holding a sign, all in caps:  RUTH M. AND HIS FREINDS.  Welcome to Morocco.  The sad news is that I forgot to put the small olive oil bottle I bought in my checked bag, and it was confiscated at security check-in.  Boohoo.

Ronda, Spain, Wed, 10/20/21

Cruising as we have been in southern Spain, we're now in Ronda -- a town with a rich cultural, historic and literary tradition.  It's also famous for bullfighting.  (The town was witness to the horrors inflicted on civilians during the Spanish Civil War and is believed to be the setting for several Ernest Hemingway's works.)  Today, our field trip will take us on foot through the charming old town to the spectacular "Puente Nuevo" -- the new bridge, spanning a 300+ foot gorge, carved out by the Guadalevín River.

Beginning our walk at the lovely Alameda del Tajo, loosely translated as the avenue overlooking the gorge.

Heading for the New Bridge.

This is a very old city, with prehistoric settlements from the neolithic age, through the Celts, Romans, Visigoths, Berbers, Moors, and probably others.  All leaving an imprint of one kind or another, I'm sure.

I don't have a professional camera, tho I do have a new one, but still, it hates bright vs dark.  Beneath the arch is a deep canyon.

The walk toward the bridge, along the canyon, was so picturesque.  Lots of steps and lots of stairs, but no matter.  The view was worth it.

Of a sudden, a flock of pigeons rose from their hiding places in the canyon walls.  Mostly that's the only bird I'm seeing on this trip.  Pigeons and doves.

Ibby leads the way down, down, down.

My first glimpse of the New Bridge (Puente Nuevo).  The word "new" is kind of a misnomer, as the building of this bridge commenced in 1751 and took until 1793 to complete!  It's the most famous of Ronda's three bridges.

Ibby beat us to the bridge.  This is tallest of the bridges, towering 390 ft above the canyon floor.  The group would soon be heading up the winding walkway to his right, which was very slick.  These cobblestones and the uneven terrain can be treacherous.

This road (I guess the path could be called a road) led to the Arab Baths.

Partially intact, "Baños Arabes" are found below the city, and date back to the 13th and 14th centuries. Today we could see all the facilities available for its time. They're the best preserved Arabic baths.

Ingenious water system for the baths (three rooms:  cold, tepid, and hot, as well as rooms for other needs and just relaxing.

Taking a rest in front of the Convent of St Isabel ...

... which we entered just to take a picture.

Ronda seemed to be a very clean city (population roughly 35,000), and here above you see why.  A street sweeper with his man-made brooms.

The views were pretty amazing.

Ronda is home to a beautiful bullring, still in use. Dating from 1785, this elegant, neo-classical structure is Spain’s oldest "plaza de toros."

And here we are inside the bullring.

(haha, couldn't find our way out!)

View from our hotel patio!

Really nice hotel.  Hi, Jimmy!

After dinner, we were treated to an-hour long terrific flamenco guitar concert by Celia Morales.  She had everyone spellbound with her playing.

Finally, we closed out our day (over 11,000 steps again) with a fantastico sunset.  Terrific day.  But we were tired and ready for bed early.  Mañana, we head out again, for Granada, and the Alhambra.