Top o' the World! 7/3-7/4, 2024

Our ship paused in Havøysund at 8:30am for 15 minutes, no doubt to pick up or drop off someone or something. This is a tiny fishing village, population 915, located on a small island and connected by bridge to the mainland. All along the water these post-WWII houses had the same boxy design (below). This is our up-close look at the dinky villages we've only seen from afar (aboard ship).

Next was our three-plus-hour stop in Honningsvåg, which is on the southeastern side of the large island of Magerøya, while the famous North Cape (aka Nordkapp) and its visitor center are on the northern side.  Today we'd climb aboard a bus that looked way too big for the itty-bitty road, and visit said cape at the Top of the World!

Maybe this map will help.  Our ship has called in at most of the cities listed, starting in Bergen, as well as many that are not.  Today we'll be at the top!

Riding a bike from Honningsvag up to Nordkapp?  In this weather?  On this narrow road?  More power to him/her!  The bus drove in and out of fog/clouds.  Sometime you couldn't see but a few yards in front of you.  Bus windows were fogged or peppered with raindrops.

Situated at 71°10′21′′, we are much further north than our Nevada City latitude of 39.2616°.  Standing in the fog, Jimmy and I huddled beneath the globe that marks the end point of the European continent.  So cool!  Behind us, was a 1007 ft drop to the Arctic Ocean ... probably just as well we couldn't see that!  Good thing I wore a pink parka, and glad we had the umbrella.

Even with long john bottoms and layers on top, we could stay outside only for the photo op; the cold was bone-chilling.

So we came in to explore the fantastic visitor center.  Built mainly of stone in 1959, large parts of the building were placed inside the mountain plateau, "to protect the visual experience."  We watched their film (always do) to learn more about who/what/where.  A bird wall featured a number of feathered friends, above are puffins and gannets.

We checked out the Cave of Lights.

Ooooh, photo op!

We saw quite a few grazing reindeer, owned by the Sami people, both on the way up to the cape and on the return to the ship.  They're on the island for the summer.

Back in Honningsvag, we spied huge racks of drying cod, known as stockfish.

A photo op with the big-eared kid!

Nice toenail polish 😁

On the ship, we passed a "point of interest" known as Finnkirka rock formation.  You could read a couple of paragraphs more by clicking here.  Again and again:  the Norwegian scenery, its fjords and islands, is magnificent.

Back to food.  This was our "last supper," and it was delicious.

Our new friend and tablemate, Elizabeth from Boulder, CO, was a delight.  We enjoyed sharing meals with her, plus we had such stellar seating.  Elizabeth, I hope your southbound cruise was as terrific as our northbound!

About the time I was getting ready for bed came the announcement of Whales!  Starboard.  Port bow. Now both sides!  We were sailing through a pod of pilot whales, who, in turn, attracted thousands of seabirds.  The birds were too far away and too small to identify.  "Whales" always causes excitement.

Well, we filled our suitcases again, as tomorrow our week-long cruise was over.  We had to have our luggage next to the elevators by Midnight, and be ready to leave the ship by 9 in the morning.  Boo hoo, wish we didn't have to go!

Coming into the Kirkenes channel.

Rocks, lichen, moss.

Here we are, Bernice, finally in Kirkenes, last stop in Norway.  Jimmy and I have loved cruising up Norway's coast.  This voyage was in the books for 2020, but COVID put the kibosh on it then.  2024 was the magic year for Hurtigruten and we recommend them highly.  As a working ship, not merely a cruise liner, they have a lot going for them, and for all ages, too.  You can go northbound or southbound or both, and I know they have trips going elsewhere.  If you get the chance, GO!

One last look at our Nordkapp, as we head for Kirkenes airport.  What a wonderful experience this has been!  Jimmy's already talking about going back!  First things first, please, let's finish this adventure before you leap ahead!  We boarded a SAS jet for Oslo, and then, and then ... it's on to the next chapter of our summer trip!

Ahhh, Norway! July 1-2, 2024

 

Lofoten is an Archipelago in Nordland we didn't want to miss, with its dramatic mountains, peaceful farms, open sea and sheltered bays. Lucky us, after dinner our Nordkapp docked in Stamsund where a tour bus picked us up for a two-hour ride to Svolvær, roughly 40 miles, including a stop at a museum. But, bus photos are usually not very good, and mine are no exception, so we'll skip my Lofoten pics, except the one below.  Jimmy and I have our memories.

Yet our long day was still not finished.  When an announcement was made after 11pm about something we "wouldn't want to miss, come up to Deck 7," I grabbed my camera and was rewarded by Trollfjord - one of the most spectacular sights in this country of unrestrained beauty!

Just out of Svolvær, the Nordkapp captain made a little detour, like giving his passengers a gift, so we could see this.  Mind you, it was close to 11:30pm.

And the sun was still up, though tucked behind a cloud, as you see.

Hurtigurten entering the fjord,

photo by Chris Shervey from the UK.

Trollfjord has a narrow entrance, with steep mountains on either side, so close, in fact, that I felt like I could reach out and touch the rock.  Only a little over a mile long, the fjord seems impossible for a ship like Nordkapp to enter and navigate and then turn around at the end (above). It's only accessible by boat.  That building at the waterline is a power station.

The Nordkapp dawdled before it turned around, giving everyone an eyeful.  Other than gasps of awe, the deck was hushed.

Look at this!  I stood on Deck 7 till Midnight, and yes, that is the Midnight Sun striking yonder mountain peaks!  Breathtaking. 💗  I finally hit the sack 12:30/ish, grateful that I lasted this long!

* * * * *

The Nordkapp sailed into Tromsø the next afternoon, July 2nd, and Jimmy and I would have four hours to explore the town, with a decent weather forecast.  Tromso is getting up there in latitude!

But first, here's a look at the restaurant entrance as we popped in for breakfast.  I didn't get a chance to snap a pic of the food areas, too bad, we always had a great selection for each meal.  Our table was all the way in the back, perfect for us.

Jimmy (wussy boy) was hiding from the wind as we made our way into Finnsnes.  It was a quick stop, but it's fun to look around as we come into a port.  The seabirds were flyin', below!

He and I were off, city map in hand, when we hit Tromso.  This polar bear is the only one we'd see in our travels.  Notice I broke out "big pink," and I was dressed just right for the day (for once).

Brilliant flower displays all over town, as you see.  That bird?  A Herring Gull as big as a turkey!  It was parked at the feet of a woman sitting on a bench eating a biscuit.  It didn't move or care that I stood next to it.  It had one mission:  Wait till she threw a scrap.  She did, and it flew off.

Fantastic mural.

We spied the famous Arctic Cathedral across the strait and wondered if we should hike across the bridge to see it up close (below).

Da bridge.

Harpoon man!

Norwegian hero:  explorer of both poles.

(looks kinda weather-beaten!)

There may be autos in front, but these old wooden structures have been in place for decades.

Well, of course, we hiked across the 4,000 ft bridge to see the cathedral.  When we neared, it appeared to be closed, so we turned around and returned to our ship.  There she is, above!  This was one of those many-thousand-steps day.

Quite stunning, more so from a distance, I think.

Dedicated in November, 1965.

Nah, we didn't go in.

Been quite busy the past two days.  Actually, the past two weeks have been great, full of activity and fun.  And it ain't over yet!

Arctic Coastal Walk, 7/1/24

 

The Nordkapp hailed Bodø after lunch.  Jimmy and I had tour choices for Bodo, and an Arctic Coastal Walk was my pick.  Only a few minutes in a bus, and a small group of us was deposited, along with Alexander our guide, at our starting point outside of the city.  Alex had a young trainee with him and a "sweep" bringing up the rear to make sure none of the flock strayed, fell in the drink, or got lost.

We didn't get a chance to explore Bodo, more's the pity, 'cause it looked like a neat town.  Maybe we'll have to return.  Maybe bring my sister with us. 😊

Our pace wasn't fast, but we did have a schedule to keep.  Alexander was young and knowledgeable, but he wasn't a botanist or a birder.  Never mind, it was grand to be Out and About on such a lovely day in clear, fresh Nordic air.

The tide was out and many of us walked onto the flats to stick our finger in the (cold!) water, and one lady even waded in up to her knees!  Not me, tho, nor Jimmy!  I should've left the jacket on the ship; I sure didn't need it here.

What could be better than exploring this Nordland region in summer?  Lots and lots of wildflowers were in bloom, some recognizable, some not, jumbled together as above.  

Wildflowers were in!

The walk was approx two kms, not very long, a bit up/down, along the water and into a classic, stunted birch forest in this boreal zone.  At one point we moved up onto a rocky hummock ... and halted.  Alex asked us if we knew why he stopped us and what the low hill might be.  A lady suggested a Viking burial mound and, by gum, she was right. We each bent down and touched one of the rocks, possibly for good luck?  (below)

Much of the rock in these parts is granite with quartz bands mixed in.  Sometimes we take a nice photo.

Descending back to a beach, with me following Jimmy.  You see how green everything is!  I bet I could spend all summer here.  Looks like cotton grass growing in this area.  

Everywhere we go, Jimmy makes a heart. 💕

I heard Alex say the tides in Bodo were about eight feet.

I think that's right.

Wood Cranesbill,

(Woodland geranium).

I had trouble keeping up,

only because I kept stopping to take pictures.

Ahhh, here you see a desiccated pilot whale.  Alexander said it's been there for several months (came in on a storm?), and it was left there for animals and birds to scavenge.  My nose smelled nothing, but others said it ponked.

We saw a number of these,

I believe it's a Marsh Fragrant Orchid.

Woohoo, another campground!  Bodo is reachable by road and ferry, so if you're thinking of camping in Norway, this would be a good pick!

Once we leave Bodo, the Nordkapp will sail to the Lofoten Islands, which we could (barely) see from where we were standing.  Roughly 85km away, but if you look closely, the Lofoten mountains are very faint below the red x.

As our coastal walk neared its end, Alex asked if anyone wanted to taste Meadowsweet tea.  The group was game, and he produced small cups and three thermoses of hot tea which he brewed with a tablespoon of honey  I could see Meadowsweet, above, growing where we'd walked.  For centuries, the herb has been used in traditional medicine .. even the Vikings were known to use it.  (Pretty tasty tea)

Another lighthouse!  With all the water and islands, lighthouses are critical in Norway!  This one is Landegode Lighthouse, situated between Bodo and Lofoten, built in 1902 and automated in 1988.  A proper-looking building, if I do say so.

We reluctantly said goodbye to Bodo, yet looked forward to seeing Lofoten after dinner.  Good thing we're experiencing Midnight Sun now in Norway, 'cause our day is long and full.  Lucky, lucky us!