Kata Tjuta, Tuesday, 12/13/16

Kata Tjuta is the other major landmark that forms wondrous Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. Also known (or should I say, previously known), as The Olgas, it's roughly 20 miles WNW of Uluru.

The RS group took off at 8:45 on a field trip to explore Kata Tjuta (pretend the "j" isn't there, and it's easy to pronounce kata tuta). They went without me, though I would've loved going, but I'd been plagued with an annoying itchy rash that drives me nuts in hot, sunny weather. When Jimmy returned, he said I was smart to stay in, because it was flat-out hot ... but I wished ... oh well. These, then, are Jimmy's photos, and they're beautiful; I know you'll agree.

The colors are beyond wondrous -- they're radiant!

So, 36 ochre-colored domes make up Kata Tjuta.  Kata Tjuta means "many heads" in a local (Pitjantjatjara) language ... the name is certainly apt!  The domes are spread over an area of more than 12 miles (20 km), with Mount Olga the highest point at 3497' (1066m) above sea level. These are only stats -- imagine yourself facing these awesome sandstone monoliths!

This is an Anangu men's site and is sacred under Tjukurpa (law). Everyone is welcome and encouraged to visit, but as with all areas of the park, they ask you to please stay on the marked tracks.

Their first stop off the coach was a short walk on a (handicap accessible) concrete path to a dune-viewing platform for a photo-op of Kata Tjuta.  Jimmy got a shot of the group making their way on the path.

As water bottles were being filled, some spilled, and it only took a few seconds before Tufted pigeons arrived to help themselves to a drink.  Free water!

I love this picture -- the interplay of colors talks to me.

Calandrine (Portulacaceae)

Just like USA deserts -- after a rain, pretty wildflowers bloom. Apparently Walpa Gorge is a desert refuge for plants and animals.

A short drive later and close to the remarkable domes, the group began the Walpa (windy) Gorge walk -- a modest 1.5 miles, on a rocky track that gently rose to a sometimes-stream, ending at a grove of Spearwood. When I asked Jimmy about it, he answered, "It was hot and uneventful." Okay. In his defense, despite the beauty of the park, we were all kinda worn out by this point, and the heat was pretty overwhelming.

What an experience they must have had walking within the sheer walls and experiencing this amazing landscape.

One important thing our guide shared with us was the silly phrase:  Slip, slop, slap, slurp -- meaning slip into protective clothing, slop on SPF 30+, slap on a broad-brimmed hat, and slurp water often. Good advice, and a cool way, so to speak, of remembering how to stay safe in hot, sunny weather!

Brian (above) and Jimmy walked together most of the way.

After they returned and we had lunch, it was time to to leave.  Here we are at 3:15pm, ready to board at Ayers Rock Airport. This will be our tenth flight of this trip (yeow!) ... only three more to go and we'll be home. 😉 This plane will take us east, to Cairns, Queensland, Australia, on the Coral Sea, gateway to The Great Barrier Reef.

Even miles away and up in the air, Uluru is an impressive sight!  So long for now!

Uluru-Kata Tjuta Nat'l Park -- Monday, 12/12/16

Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park is quintessential Australia, like Sydney's Opera House or The Great Barrier Reef, or kangaroos, but The Rock is more than that.  As Alice Springs is Australia's geographic center, Uluru might be considered its mystical center.  Uluru IS a sacred place, not just for the traditional landowners --  the Aboriginal people -- but to many who feel extraordinary forces of spirituality surrounding them.  To see the red sandstone anomaly standing alone is to wonder at its creation.  In person, it is really something.

When we were growing up, we knew it as Ayers Rock.  Wiki tells us:  Surveyor William Gosse sighted the landmark in 1873 and named it Ayers Rock in honor of Sir Henry Ayers (Chief Secretary of South Australia at the time)  Since then, both names have been used.  In 1993, however, a dual naming policy was adopted and the official name "Uluru/Ayers Rock" was adopted in November 2002.

In 1950 Ayers Rock (Uluru), was declared a national park. In 1958 both Ayers Rock and Mt Olga (Kata Tjuta) were excised from an Aboriginal reserve to form the Ayers Rock-Mt Olga National Park. It took more than 35 years campaigning for the Anangu (local indigenous people) to be recognized as the park's traditional owners and given the deeds back to their land.  Geez.  Well, the name now is officially Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park.

As you make your way around Uluru, it will show you its different faces, and as the daylight hours advance, The Rock changes its aspect -- every angle, each hour, every day of the year.

Today, it was our turn to explore this great place.  I began taking pictures while we were still en route, but when we arrived, we made straight for the Uluru Cultural Centre for lunch (hungry again!). Following lunch, we spent time in the centre eyeing a very interesting display of the Aboriginal perspective of the area, as well as some fantastic art pieces.

By 2:45pm, or so, we were out to experience both Kuniya and Mala walks in the national park.  It was pretty hot by then, and shade was paramount in my book.  Above, prior to our walk, we gathered to listen to our guide speak about flora and fauna, geology, and the Aboriginal significance of Uluru.

For me, the glaring sun on the red sandstone was all but overwhelming, but the abundant greenery around Uluru's base eased its intensity, and trees provided welcome shade.

I'm sorry, I don't do heat well.

The glowing red sandstone is pocked and cracked and a-jumble of rocks.

The Rock is BIG. It's close to 6 miles in diameter around the base, about a 10k walk! You'd have to get an early start, because of the heat, and take plenty of water. I believe the entire path is paved and wheelchair accessible.  Jimmy and I wished we'd had the time to walk the base path ... I believe it would have really enhanced our appreciation.  Like national parks everywhere, we always wish we had more time to spend. 

Above and below:  The Kuniya walk was so cool -- a living cultural landscape -- including a cave and rock art.  We were told that the Anangu use the cave to this day, and consider it a special place.  I can see why.

Dead Finish (Acacia tetragonophylla)  -- native flora.

Part of our walk included the short track to the Mutitjulu waterhole (home of a wanampi, an ancestral water snake). We didn't see magical waterfalls, but we were thrilled to see an actual waterhole, like an oasis in our southwest desert.  Lovely reflections.

Not our group, but this gives you an idea of Uluru's size and color at mid-afternoon.

Isn't it fascinating?

The sign says, closed for the summer season, but a well-worn path to the top begins here, with a chain to help climbers.  Makes it tempting to see the views from the top.  Our group understood that climbing to the top was either not allowed or unacceptable, because Uluru holds tremendous spiritual significance for the local Anangu people. This experience is something reserved for them, and even they only climb up there on special occasions.  I guess some tourists still make the one-kilometer climb each year.  We did not.

We finally checked into the Outback Pioneer Hotel, close to 5pm.  Jimmy and I immediately donned our bathing suits and eased into their warm outdoor pool, ahh.  We had time.  Why do so many people want to make the long trek to Uluru ... planted way out in the Outback and with a whole lot of nothing else nearby?  Aside from what I've already mentioned, witnessing Uluru glow at sunset is why.  

At 6:30 our crew left the hotel, boarded our coach, and made our way to the bus viewing area. Road Scholar had a small picnic planned for our sunset viewing, with champagne (or juice, as above) and snacks, and even folding stools. Everyone was excited. This would be the culmination of our interior Australian adventure, one that we all had been anticipating. It was like, "pinch me," I'm here!

Good friends:  Bernice and Ibby (Bernice still has her fly protection net on).

We were not alone!  This is a fraction of the buses and vehicles, only the first tier, each filled with people to see the marvel of Uluru at sunset, and most outfits carried picnics.

Look at that vibrant color!  I didn't enhance the photo (just cropped it).  Our group alternated between gazing awestruck at The Rock, chatting and snacking, and taking photos ... like a beacon, it beckons you to stare.  The fiery sun was behind us, closing in, minute by minute on Uluru, turning it a deep, brilliant red.

Perhaps you've seen these images in a million photos, but the reality is a million times better.  There is no substitution for the real deal.

And then, the sun was gone.  Afterglow is all that's left.  The show was over.

What a simply breathtaking experience.

We returned to our hotel for dinner, and an early night after our over-the-top day!

 

I thought you might like to see Uluru from the air.  I lifted the pic from the 'net.

Absolutely stellar day.  

On to Uluru ... Monday 12/12/16

Today would be a long one, beginning with last night's reminder to have our luggage outside our room before we went to breakfast (to which we complied).  The second half of that message said that the bus would leave at 7am, be there or be left behind (kidding about the "left behind" part).

How many people know that Uluru (Ayers Rock) is roughly 275 miles (463km) from Alice Springs, via the Stuart and Lasseter Highways? That's approximately five hours driving time. When you're traveling with 17 other people, pit stops have to be provided, too, because somebody's always gotta go, so the five hours becomes six. Is this route scenic? Not really (look at the photo above), but the stops were, as you'll see. The coach we were in was smaller than what we've been used to (no comfy, plush seats), so the stops were most welcome. Roads that we call "paved," Aussie's call "sealed," and they weren't too bad.

Stuart's Well Camel Farm was our first break, around 8 in the morning.  For a price (I don't know how much), you can ride a camel, preferably a pretty one.  Only two in our crowd were interested, and the rest of us gathered to watch!  Guess it might have been too early for everyone else.

Ah, the pretty one is at left! 😉

Nice smile, too.

Sonya and Arvid, waving, and away they go!

With a sprint at the end of the track, wowzers!  The watching crowd applauded.  Sonya and Arvid were triumphant on the camel!  

Whoa, there!  Getting off the dang thing is another matter!

It was fun and a timely stop.

Above, moving right along → turning onto Lasseter Hwy ....

Mt Ebenezer Roadhouse came next. Morning tea was provided, which was especially appreciated for anyone who'd visited one of the rooms below, and might again be thirsty. These roadhouses are set in the middle of nowhere, and I'm guessing most travelers stop ... driver fatigue would be a real issue here. We didn't see any animals on the road, but we weren't sitting up front, either. That's the other hazard in the Outback, hitting a 'roo or a camel or even a stupid steer.

Uh, well, okay. Christmas in the Outback does NOT resemble Christmas, say, in New England, or many another area in the states! Local Aboriginal art was also available at Mt Ebenezer's, but Jimmy and I passed. Besides, after a brief survey, I was outside, looking at the green trees and birds on their branches, and that absolutely deserted-looking road.

Well, now, think that might be Uluru? Nope, that's Mt Connor, a striking mesa, but a lot of people are fooled when it pops into view. Another name is Fool-uru 😄. Like Uluru, it's a sacred site to Aboriginal people, who call it Attila. This is the Mt Connor Lookout, below, a rest area with a pit toilet, and parking for those needing a rest. Our bus stopped here.

When the smell hits you before you see the danged thing, only desperation would make you step up and use it.  I wasn't desperate.  Peee-uu!

However, this flock of Zebra finches didn't seem to mind the stink, they found a (fresh?) water source below the toilet.  I hope the water source was sink water since these guys were all over that puddle. (I got close enough to take the pic before making a speedy getaway.)

We are in red sand country -- red-sand dunes!  Amazing to see trees and flowering shrubs growing in red sand.  Across the hwy from the rest area, I climbed to the top of a dune (to see what was on the other side) and, holy cow, I was astonished to see a lake!  Our guide called it Lake Martin, but I can't find any verification on that.  I'm guessing it's a salt pan "lake" 90% (or more) of the year, but as I mentioned earlier, rain fell in the area not long ago, and it appears a fair amount of rainwater collected here.  Hey, that's our road disappearing over the horizon.

A few miles down that road, I saw a forest of ... "what are those?" I asked. Desert Oaks,(Allocasuarina decaisneana) they're called. Quite a sight, I can tell you, when they hove into view, seemingly out of the blue. Attractive, too. A forest is not what you'd expect to see in the red desert.

The road goes on forever ....

And, suddenly, there it is:  Uluru.  Ayers Rock.  Sacred site to native peoples and to many others who have seen it.  Still a long way for us, but we're close.  We are next.