20230125

Last of all, Sun-Tues -- Jan 24th, 2023


Our usual MO when leaving the desert is to stop overnight at the Wasco, CA Elks and then head home.  That makes for two long driving days.  This year we decided to break the drive home into three segments, stopping at two different Harvest Hosts locales.  Remember, Harvest Hosts don't normally have hookups.  Our first choice of an overnight stop was booked, so we looked further, and spent Sunday night at The Dam Ranch in Tehachapi, CA.

The Dam Ranch is a 22-acre horse/goat rescue and family ranch nestled in the Tehachapi mountains.  Getting there involved driving on rural roads that eventually ended up being just mud -- kinda sketchy!  Parking was in a large, flat dirt pasture.  One other (teardrop) RV arrived before us, but we saw no one.


As we drove up-up-up the hill from the desert, we were aghast to see patchy snow on the north-facing Tehachapi Mtns!  I don't know the elevation, but over 4,000'.  We call this cut-through-the-mountains the Tehachapi wind-tunnel, as the wind has been known to rip across here (which is why it has lots of wind turbines, as you see, above and below).


I guess we were in the clouds, too!  'Cause suddenly the sun vanished.


With an occasional ray reaching toward earth.


This was the view from our dinette window.


And a sunset photo, too.

By the time we were set up in the pasture, the temp was already in the 30's; we planned for a cold night.  Our hosts were out of town, so we missed seeing them.  The animals must have been in the barn to stay warm, too.  As it was, at bedtime, we pulled in both slides, threw another blanket on the bed, kept the catalytic propane heater on high, and hoped for the best.  Come morning, the outside temp was a frigid 18°, with a cool 48° inside.  Time to turn on the furnace!  Everything out there was covered in thick frost.  We didn't tarry, wanting to get to the valley and warmer temps.  If the weather'd been better, our take on this host would be different.  All we did was stop overnight here.

* * * * *

From Tehachapi, on Monday morning we drove down into the San Joaquin Valley to the little town of Coalinga, CA, abutting the range of low green hills called Guijarral Hills.  Off the beaten path, for sure.  Our Harvest Host was the R.C. Baker Memorial Museum, located pretty much downtown ... with its faithfully restored 1934 Richfield Service Station, below.

"The R.C. Baker Museum is a collective memory of a community that helped fuel the American century. It is about people who worked the land and created a spirit that has survived in both the good and bad times; it is about us.  Five rooms of artifacts with local history, especially relating to the Oil Industry in Coalinga's past. Restored Richfield station, antique cars, and Western artifacts."


Cool beans!


Don't you wish!
Dream on 😍


Five rooms of everything you can imagine.  And then some.  The museum was closed when we arrived, but Bill (our harvest host) opened it for us after lunch.  This is a true history of a town, leveled in the 6.7 devastating 1983 earthquake and trying to hang on in the 21st Century.


R C Baker got lucky.  In 1899 he was diagnosed with asthma.  He took a contract to drill a wildcat well in Coalinga.  The drier climate improved his health so much he decided to stay.  He struck oil and the boom was on.  Baker never advanced beyond the third grade, but he possessed an incredible understanding of mechanical and hydraulic systems, and some of his early inventions revolutionized the oil drilling industry.  He became a major player in the city.  This is from the museum brochure.  Bill and Jimmy above, at the entrance to what I'd call the oil room, below.


One wall of a room FILLED with oil "thingees."


Room scenes representing Coalinga, and all of it (so I understood) was donated by/from residents.  We've never seen a small town with such a personal history museum.  It was great to tour.


Side saddles for women.  Honest.  Incredible.


Before computers. 😵


Really, who knew there was more than one kind of barbed wire fencing?  I mean, who knew?  They're not all alike?  Why would you need more than one kind?  This is crazy.


This is a very cool car.  It even has air conditioning via the swamp cooler (photo below) attached to the passenger window.  I'd drive this car.  Wouldn't you?




This old Model T vehicle was a traveling grocery store that serviced the oil industry camps.  Baptiste Motte, who emigrated from Les Barraques, France, began the business in 1919.  I saw a picture in the museum of a hillside outside of town that was peppered with oil derricks, so his traveling store must have been a godsend to the out-of-towners.  


The things you see!  A teacher who "wanted his students to think about in who's shoes they may walk in the future."  He wrote to numerous celebrities asking them to send him a pair of their shoes to be displayed at school.  And believe it or not, the display includes shoes from Nixon, Golda Meir, Art Buchwald, Irving Stone, Ann Landers, and more.  All tagged blue, above.  Mind blowing!


Just filled with goodies to look at.




The large building at right houses most of the museum's goodies, but all the structures above are part of the museum.  Tergel (forgot to get a pic) is parked behind the wonderful gas station out of the photo at left.

I've always associated Coalinga with the overwhelming fragrance of a cow feed lot, because the Coalinga exit sign on the I-5 freeway is beside a very smelly lot containing hundreds and hundreds of black moo cows, but not girl cows.  As many times as we've traversed I-5, up and down the Central Valley, we've never turned off to see what's out there beyond the freeway -- a town, a museum, a park, things you wouldn't see unless you exited the fast track.  The town was clean and proud of its heritage.  It didn't smell.  Heck it's like 16 miles west of I-5!


We didn't get any great pics of the rest of the drive home.  Mostly all you see is trees.  Trees in perfect rows, guided by GPS.  All trimmed the same height, none tall, many squared into an unnatural box shape.  The rows go beyond measuring in acres.  More like miles.  Some are mature trees, others are what I call "stick" trees, which are new saplings, each encased by a white cone, as above.  Almond trees.  Pistachio trees.  Walnut trees.  One section devoted to citrus.  Trees ... all thirsty.  Bad planning to plant thirsty guys in a drought-ridden state.

BTW:  I-5 runs from San Diego in the south to the Canadian border in the north.  The section through California's Central Valley was the last (faster, more north-south than Hwy 99) section of I-5 to be constructed, with the final segment opened to traffic near Stockton on 10/12/1979.  When you could finally zip from LA to Sacramento on newly opened I-5, you'd better have lunch and water with you and be able to "hold your water," because this new freeway bypassed those already established farming communities on Hwy 99, like Fresno, Modesto, etc., with their restaurants, rest rooms, and gas pumps.  Even now, long stretches are devoid of "civilization."  But you will see trees.

So be it.  Happy to see home on a warm/ish Tuesday afternoon.  Like I always say, "It's good to go, and it's good to come home."  Time to start planning the next trip!


20230122

Another look -- Friday, 1/20/23


Joshua Tree Nat'l Park encompasses a whole lot of territory, 1,234 square miles -- a person could spend years exploring this national park!  Jimmy and I visited one other time ten years ago in March, going to a different area, and it was warm then -- we were in shorts! Yesterday we climbed a mountain here and we were mighty cold.  Today we returned to see more of this fascinating place, dressed appropriately for the icy weather we'd face, in parkas, long johns, gloves.


But, oh, we didn't factor in gale-force winds from the North -- the kind that takes your breath away when you face into it and chills you to the bone no matter what you're wearing!  When we arrived at the park, we drove to Keys View, 5185' and end of the road, for the panoramic view of the valley and surrounding mountains.  Here the temp was 35° and that's where the wind hit us.  I took the above pic and we left toot sweet.  The temp moderated as we descended, but never rose above 41°.  In the pic above you're seeing Mt San Jacinto with Palm Springs nestled below, and the San Andreas Fault -- the linear dark/ish ridge you see in the middle of the photo.


Then we turned onto Lost Horse Mine Road, parked and commenced a short walk.  Truly, it was too windy to tackle a hike to the summit.  We didn't need that.


Ichabod Crane was here?


We started up the trail and returned to the car via a wash (less wind).


Kinda bumpy, tho -- we had to do some clambering.


Further up the road, we decided to check out Wall Street Mill and Barker Dam in that order.


Do you take this with a grain of salt, so to speak, or trust this as gospel?  Heck, a plaque was erected to commemorate the deed.  Either way, stuff like this makes a walk more interesting.  I did some reading and learned that Keys served five years in jail for the murder, but ultimately was released and pardoned.


Wall Street Mill is what's left of an old gold mining operation, plus relics from the past, including this broken-down windmill.  It's a two-mile R/T fairly easy hike on sand, with that durned wind whistling across the high plain.  I held my gloved hands across my cheeks to keep them from freezing.  Ever notice it's harder to breathe in arid land when it's cold?  Regardless, we rambled all over the area.

Today Wall Street Mill is considered the best-preserved gold mill in Joshua Tree and listed in the National Register of Historic Places.  Barker Dam is also on the list.


Jimmy is examining part of the old mill.


I 💗 you.


Eventually the trail dead ends at/on the rocks!
Hmm, notice I'm not alone?


One of the old relics -- haha, that would be the truck with flat tires!


I'd packed chicken sandwiches and home-canned pears, which we gobbled down when we got back to Smartie.  We also warmed up sitting in the car!  After lunch, we followed a wash to get to the Barker Dam trail.


Jimmy on the trail, walking between Turbinella Oaks, which I'd never heard of!  On this particular trail were lots of neat clumps of prickly pear cactus, if clumps is the right word.


And then the trail turns to rock-hopping.


National Parks are The Best.  Each has a splendor and appeal of its own.  In our large country, Americans are lucky to have so many!  This one didn't seem to be overrun by visitors, at least while we were visiting.




A rancher by the name of C.O. Barker built the dam around 1902 for his cattle.  Hard to imagine this high desert could support ranchers much less cattle, isn't it?  But back then, this area was a much more lush range where cattle grazed on galleta grass and drank their fill of clear water. (hard to believe today)


Barker Dam created a reservoir.  You're looking at it, center.  No water.  Dry. I read that long ago this desert had more rainfall and water could be stored behind the dam.  Nowadays, perhaps after one of the summer monsoon thunderstorms it might have water, but otherwise, not.


This was fun!
After my visor blew off twice, I decided to carry it.


Below the dam are the remains of a cement double-rim cattle watering trough built by the Keys' family in June 1939.  Kind of amazing it's standing after all these years.


We continued on the path that eventually led us to the car.  While we didn't climb any mountains today, we put over 15,000 steps (5.8 miles) on the ol' fitbit.  We're getting our exercise in the desert!


We got home to Tergel earlier than we did the other day, which we appreciated.  Plenty of time for a nice long swim, a brief soak in the hottub and an easy dinner.  Notwithstanding the wicked cold, we enjoyed our time at Joshua Tree NP.  The incredible rock formations are a sight to see -- because there are so many, it boggles the mind.  Though we didn't see much wildlife (one bunny wabbit), we were held spellbound by scenes such as above.  I liked seeing all the cacti, some of it tucked into wee cracks or out-of-the-way hidey holes.  If you've never been, we recommend a tour of this magical national park.

Saturday was for mundane things like going to the store and gearing up for leaving on Sunday, heading home.  Our two wks is over on Sunday.  What a grand time we had!  We pulled out the bikes this afternoon and got a short ride in, pedaling thru nearby mobile home parks (full of old people) and on local roads.  That's where we spotted the Roadrunner, below.


Beep Beep

20230120

Joshua Tree NP, Wed, 1/18/23


Wednesday dawned clear and sunny and not too windy, just the kind of day we've been waiting for to pay a visit to Joshua Tree National Park.  It was kinda nippy (40°) when we got up, but the temp was supposed to rise to 60/ish.  Naturally we dressed in layers, but didn't take jackets.  The national park is roughly 38 miles north/east of where we're staying in Desert Hot Springs, and pretty much uphill all the way.  T'was a really beautiful morning driving -- we are always awed by the sight of snow-capped San Gorgonio mountain. "reach out and touch it"


The second thing we noticed was how much cooler it was as we neared Joshua Tree, but (then, again) we'd climbed a couple thousand feet, so ... you might expect this?  Arriving at the park, we were wonderstruck by what we saw:  Rocks, bazillions or gazillions of rocks in huge piles.  And, of course, thousands of the funny-armed trees for which the park is named.  As seen below.


"We got rocks!"


We drove about five miles in after entering the park, pulled over and parked as soon as we found a spot.  There we began a ramble through the desert, gawking and marveling at everything, big and little.  Notice the tippety-top of Mt Gorgonio behind Jimmy and to the left.  And, of course, the 30' (+/-) spiny Joshua Tree Jimmy is touching.  We also got smacked in the face by a chill wind that hurt your cheeks.

If you spot a Joshua Tree, you're in the Mojave Desert.  Facts about the Joshua tree: they only grow at elevations between 2500-5900 ft.  They grow at a rate of ½ to 3 inches per year.  It's estimated that Joshua trees live 150-200 years on average, and they're not considered mature until reaching 60.


Rocks and boulders, huge mega-things, stacked and piled, every-which-a-way.  And they're heaped into small mountains!  Just Wow!  The tall green tree at right is either a Mohave Yucca or a young Joshua Tree.  I'm not sure.


Not just Joshua Trees.  Cactus of all kinds.  Teddy-bear Cholla, Pencil Cholla, Hedgehog Cactus (top right) and the spent blossoms/seeds of a Joshua Tree (last year's) bottom right.  So much to see!

A national park since 1994, Joshua Tree NP encompasses 792,510 acres and is uniquely situated as this is where the Mohave and Colorado deserts converge.  The eastern half of the park is on the westernmost edge of the Colorado Desert, whereas the western half of Joshua Tree NP is located on the southern tip of the Mojave.  The Mojave Desert has a slightly cooler climate than the Colorado Desert and is characterized by thousands of native Joshua Trees (Yucca brevifolia).  And this is the only place in the world these "trees" grow.


Next, we ended up at Lost Horse Wall, which we learned is a climbing wall.  See the two red checkmarks at right?  Two climbers (enlarge pic).  We found three more people in various stages of rappelling down the wall (somewhere near center of the photo).  We watched for a while, turned around and found another whole mountain of rock to investigate.  I believe the shrubs in the photo are dormant, not dead.


Skeletor?


We found it hard to resist posing in front of these rock mountains.
Wouldn't you?


These Barrel Cactus are my favorites.  Ever since the first time I saw one (eons ago), they represented the desert to me and I loved seeing them.  They are so cool.


Well now, check out this immense chunk o' rock across the road from "Hall of Horrors." This type of rock is monzogranite.  What kind of name is Hall of Horrors? We got out of Smartie to explore.


I am here! And I was cold. We both kept our hands in our pockets to keep them warm. No way would we be seeing 60/ish temps at Joshua Tree. I think the temp "rose" to 46°.  I was wishing for my parka. Jimmy was wishing for long johns. But we were still so amazed by what we were seeing that we wanted to see more.  Hall of Horrors had to do with rock climbing.  We walked all the way around the entire lengthy rock pile, oohing and aahing.


Jimmy?  Take another look -- red checkmark.


I'm standing at the red checkmark, dwarfed by the boulder.

"As the story goes, a group of Mormon settlers in the mid-19th Century were making their way across the Mojave desert when they came upon the Joshua tree. The outstretched arms of this California desert vegetation reminded them of the biblical story in which Joshua holds out his hands to guide the Israelites across Canaan. In the same way, the Joshua tree guided the Mormons across the US desert, inspiring the name."  True or not, that's the story I've heard.


I hoped that rock wouldn't fall.  No earthquakes, please!


Where two giant rocks fall, but leave tiny spaces to crawl through.
Barely.  But Jimmy did it!


Ahhh, so strong!  Jimmy pushed these two halves apart!  Wow!


A new bird for me!  We came across a small flock of Bridled Titmice pecking at seeds or bugs.  Each bird sported a wee Mohawk atop its head.  Other than these and Ravens, we saw no other critters.  No doubt the smart ones were hibernating.  The weather folks on the local TV news station report that "our temperatures are ten degrees lower than average for this time of year."  Maybe so, but their lower temps are still higher than ours at home!


Neither of us knows when, as in what time, we started our climb up to the Ryan Mountain summit (5458').  I don't know why we started it, either, except I suppose because it was there, across from Halls of Horror, and we thought it might be fun.  Only a mile-and-a-half to the summit, but with a 1000'+ elevation gain.  Three mile round trip.  After the fact, we should've begun earlier in the day, like when we first arrived at the park.  We were already cold, and going up an extra 1000' didn't mean it would be warmer up top!  I got my walking stick, Jimmy said no to his, and up we went.   


One more photo of a rock conglomeration as we set off.


That same rock formation as in the photo above is at the red x.  Smartie is parked there.  Obviously we've climbed a bit!  The ribbon in the center is the road.


Rocky trail!  We still couldn't tell which peak would be the summit.


The scenery was fantastic, especially if you like cactus.  Barrels, Prickly Pear, Hedgehog, Parry's Nolina ... we kept going, stopping often to breathe and rest.


Eye candy!
(Jimmy's favorite)


This was our problem.  High rock steps, 12" to 15" to 20" steps, that constituted much of the trail.  We got close, within one or two hundred feet of the summit, and quit.  You know we're not quitters, but today we didn't have it.  We were in the shade of the mountain when we turned around and it was freezing cold, so let's blame it on the cold, if we have to lay blame.  As it turned out, we had over 17,000 steps on the fitbit, 6.5 miles from our day's wanderings.  Haha, the following day I saw that this hike is rated "strenuous" in the JTNP brochure!


But, look at this view.  The hike was worth it for this.  Those tan-colored ant hills above are the massive rock piles of Joshua Tree National Park!  What an incredible sight.  Can you find the red x?  That's our road, and somewhere down there, behind the big hill (center), Smartie and it's heater awaited.  We couldn't see it from here, but we knew how to get down to her.  It only took 45 minutes to get off the mountain.  Now, 4:15 in the afternoon, we made for our Tergel-home, and a warm swim, dinner, and bed. 

What an incredible place.  We may have to come back, and this time bring jackets. 😊