A day in the life, 10/18/26

Sometimes a day just jells perfectly and this was such a day, with one very special memory for me.  But first, I awoke in the middle of the night (oh-dark-hundred), got up and sat on the chaise lounge in front of the long, tall window in our room.  Outside, all was quiet and dark enough for me to view stars.  Seeing Three-in-a-Row made me ridiculously happy, reminding me of our home sky.  What an awesome window.

Anyhoot, today we'd drive a bit to the small town of Rilán, still on Chiloé Island, where we'd spend several hours with a local family and learn about their lives ... people in rural (and remote) areas had to be self-sufficient and we'd soon find out that these folks were the epitome of that!  Raoul and Ilse graciously invited the group into their home, and soon we moved to a separate room behind their house, space designed for working and crafts.

Castro is really picturesque, as you see.  I took this picture from the bus on our way to Rilán.  Palafitos are traditional wooden homes on tall timber posts.  At low tide, their boats are high and dry.  On high tide, they float.  Not 100% sure about all of them, but most are still occupied.  Some are now B&B's or restaurants.

Group shot!  Can you spot me and Jimmy?

Rilán, population approx 1,300, looks very peaceful.

It's a rural area of rolling hills and farmland.

Jimmy stands in front of the historic Catholic Church located in the central square of Rilán -- it's another of the 16 iconic wooden churches of Chiloé designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  We didn't go inside this one.

These two Black-faced Ibis wanted to be "King and Queen of the Castle" of Rilán's central square.  Woohoo, the clouds are clearing and blue sky prevails.

Here is the room where we met, with a charcoal fire and large teapot, benches all around.  We gathered for tea and to listen about their activities.  Ilse works with sheep wool, cleaning and dying, spinning and eventually making different items.  Raoul talked about his woodworking and gardening and all manner of "man" chores.  We asked lots of questions, Javi translated.  Learning and discovery.

We learned about making "curanto en olla."  Everyone pitched in to mix or grate or chop.  Above, Jimmy and Bernie are making milcao, a traditional Chilote potato preparation made from grated raw potatoes mixed with cooked, mashed potatoes and pork fat.  Our local guide assists and Ilse instructs from the background.

Curanto was prepared in layers, combining sauteed peppers and onions, fresh mussels from nearby mussel farms, then three slabs of beef, raw chicken, a few links of sausage, the potato patties, whole small taters, with some of the layers separated by monster Chilean rhubarb leaves.  Everything was placed in the large pot, above, Shirley added water, and the pot steamed over a fire for roughly an hour.

Then, outside, Raoul demonstrated some of his woodworking skills, how he used grinding wheels to mill flour he and his neighbors grow, and more, much more.  We moved on to the garden area where some in the group helped plant spuds!

This Southern Lapwing had her nest in the tater garden and she was NOT happy about us traipsing around near her.  Later I found her off the nest and peeked.  She had two brown speckled eggs.

We continued exploring.  Raoul is a master of all trades, and here he was showing us more of his wood carvings, but these had to do with beliefs and divine intervention.  (Don't quote me here.)

Finally, we returned to the detached room -- we could smell our dinner!  The curanto was finished, the lid ready to come off.  Layer by layer, the food was removed to bowls, till only mussels remained.  And we started diving in. 

They were delicious.

After we had our fill (and it was all very tasty), we were back outside to pose with more of Raoul's handiwork and the Chilean and local flag.  Ilse and Raoul are on either end of the gang!  Games of throwing followed, which was pretty hilarious as none of us was very good.  Raoul fired up a boombox and he and Ilse began dancing.  Other couples, too.  Neither of us can dance, but I grabbed Jimmy ...

I will forever cherish this memory.

It was time to wrap it up.  Lots of hugs and thanks and we hopped back on our bus, and we had a treat in store -- a small boat ride back into Castro rather than by bus.  Oh boy!  Above you see us starting out amid the mussel farms.

We found two sea lions perched on two different barrels -- this one made me laugh. Look at that face!

Red-legged Cormorants with nests had overtaken this channel marker, along with a couple of itinerant Kelp gulls.

Back among the Palafitos in Castro.  Apparently the pilings can get a kind of termite and need to be replaced every so often.  Boy howdy, not sure how that works!  Colorful, aren't they?

We were dropped off near Castro's main square, and had one more treat in the offing:  Ice cream.  Javi led us to an ice cream shop where we could each purchase an ice cream cone or a cup.  What a fitting end to a wonderful day.  Tip-top.

Chiloé Island, 10/17/26

 

This morning we'd quit the mainland and drive to windswept Chiloé Island, the second largest island in Chile known for its rugged landscape and seafaring people. Our destination was Castro, the capital, roughly 116 miles from Puerto Varas, which included a short car-ferry crossing across the Chacao Channel. Would we go immediately to Castro? No, of course not. Puñihuil Wildlife Reserve was first on the list. This Chilean Natural Monument is notable for being the only known shared breeding site for Humboldt and Magellanic penguins, and it was our hope to see penguins today.  We were thrilled to saw a slew of different birds!

Da Island

Yikes, a gray start to our day.

Being on Chiloé Island was a bit like taking a step back in time.   Rolling green hills interspersed with farms and tiny towns, lots of sheep and some cattle.  Picturesque.

These three islotes make up the Chilean Natural Monument.

A hard-packed sand beach led to the ocean.  You see the islets.

Hole-in-the-rock.

We were dressed for CHILLY, and maybe even overdressed.

But we survived! 😊

We'd be carried out to the boat by the rolling loading contraption!

Dog stayed on the beach.

None of us is recognizable, but we were prepared to see some birds!

It's early for penguins to show up -- October is the beginning of the breeding season.  Guys arrive first, the two dudes above were waiting on the Mrs to come; the ladies arrive later.  They're Humboldt penguins and they're the only ones we saw.  They were active for the camera, but our small boat couldn't get too close to the rocks.  We didn't spot any Magellanic penguins.  But like Jimmy always sez:  Penguins is penguins! 

Clockwise from top left:  A spiffy-looking Red-legged Cormorant next to a nest, Kelp Gull, Oyster Catcher, and a pair of Kelp Geese.

Sea Lion imitating a periscope!

Neotropic cormorants and Kelp Gulls decorating a rock.

We couldn't smell it from the boat.

This poor guy was raising a flipper in the left photo and showing us its owie in the right photo.  It ran into something or something ran into it!

Above and below:  Steamer-ducks, Flightless or Flying?

One pair of each?  Or the same?  Can you tell?

It's always too soon, never enough time, but the excursion was over, and we were carried back to shore on the same rolling contraption.  None of us fell in and no one got wet, but we were sure those guys in the water had to be cold.  Anyhoot, we enjoyed our morning!  A fish (naturally) lunch followed our outing.  Then it was ... back on the little bus.

We continued on down to Castro, a neat city of around 40,000 inhabitants. Above, on one side of the Plaza de Armas is San Francisco Church -- yellow with purple bell towers! It was built in 1912 and shows its age on the outside. The church is one of 16 declared a Chilean National Monument in 1979 and UNESCO World Heritage Site on 30 November 2000.  It's a landmark, seen from all over the city.

The inside reminded me and Jimmy of a ship, apropos of a seafaring community.  You see the island's traditional wood craftsmanship. Simple and simply beautiful.

Woohoo, across the Rio Gamboa is our hotel.  The Enjoy Hotel.  Appropriate name, this was a great hotel and we loved our stay here.

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Easy to see the city and the church from our window.

Ohhh, the floor-to-ceiling window overlooking the river (more birds!).  And the heated indoor swimming pool.  Jimmy and I could've spent a month here, but we settled for two nights!  (not my photo, btw)

Tomorrow is another special day on Chiloé Island.

A very full day, 10/16/26

 

Boy howdy, according to the OAT booklet, we'd have a full day today. Bring it on is our take on it. This morning, the little bus would take the group to Vincente Pérez Rosales National Park, 977 square miles of protected area almost entirely in the Andes mountain chain, shaped by ancient glaciers and volcanic eruptions.  Not sure what to expect, but knew it would be good!

But first, a photo op at a baño (restroom) stop.  Look at Osorno looking mighty perky behind us.  Also in the pic is invasive Scotch broom, which, together with invasive Gorse, has painted the area yellow with their flowers.  Unbelievable amount of sharp-thorned Gorse, first planted long ago to keep cows from roaming.

Gorse.

The water, so clear and pure.

I thought this little waterfall was all we'd see, but no ...

In the national park, we'd walk along the Petrohue River rapids, reminding me of my hometown Niagara River rapids, so furious and explosive.  None of us wanted to get too close to this kind of action.

At an eddy of sorts, we could dip our finger in the water to test if it was cold, haha, it was very cold.  Just out of the photo, those rapids drowned out all other sound.

We could hardly believe our eyes on the amount of water flowing over the ancient lava, much of it polished by silt over the centuries into a bed of smooth stone.  Another snow-capped volcano lurks in the distance.

Wowzers!  Check out the mist created from these chutes surging over the lava.

Here, I believe, is Chalbuco Volcano again.

And I'm taking a video of the incredible river of waterfalls, cascade after cascade with pointy Osorno Volcano as a backdrop.  We spent quite a bit of time taking in everything, happy to be Out and About in this park.

* * * * *

After lunch and perhaps a bit of napping, the bus carried us a short distance to COMBAS (a fine arts school) and a new Grand Circle Foundation Site.  We were greeted by the school's founder who led us on a tour of the facility, which had been rescued and updated from an old house into a workable school.

COMBAS seeks to promote artistic education in southern Chile by offering classes in music, dance, and visual and performing arts to children (and adults).  Most lessons are paid for by students, but the organization maintains a Children's Orchestra, which provides music lessons to at-risk kids free of charge.  We would be treated to several pieces by the children.  Trust me, it was lovely. 

I'm going to quote from the OAT booklet:  In its first year of operation, the orchestra project provided scholarships (including training, transportation, and food) to 49 vulnerable children.  These students, who ranged in age from 6 to 14, all came from low-income families and often faced difficulties at home (domestic violence and substance abuse).  The goal of the project was/is to provide these students with a safe environment and new skills that will prevent them from turning to drugs and violence. 

Well, someone forgot her uniform! 😊  These 10-12-age-girls joined several other students playing for us, and, believe me, we were spellbound, and gave them a standing O.  One of our OAT group, Bernie, mentioned he played clarinet, so nothing will do, but they rounded one up for him and he performed with the kids. Great job, Bernie!

These young ladies wrote, choreographed, and performed a poem for us.  Amazingly good, deserving another standing O.  Really a lovely afternoon. 

* * * * *

Ah, but we weren't finished yet.  Tonight was our home hosted dinner.  Our group of 13 was split into two sections, each going to a local family's home.  Our group (me and Jimmy, Nan and Bernie, and Mary and Suzanne) were warmly greeted by hosts, Ilse and Rodrigo, shown around and invited to help prepare empanadas.  This happy and interesting couple turned four shipping containers into a warm, artistic home, and we were in awe.   

Ilse had already prepared the dough, all each of us had to do was fill and form dough into empanadas.  Ilse would pop each one into hot oil, let it cool some, and we'd pop the one we made into our mouth!  Jimmy makes his empanada, above. 

Hmmm, disparity in size -- Jimmy, left. Nickie, right.  I thought the two pats we inserted in our empanadas were butter (two each), but Bernie thought the two pats were cheese.  Still not sure.

Ilse made traditional cazuela, pumpkin, carrot and potato stew, served with or without pork.  Jimmy chose with, I chose without.  Tasty dish.  Because it was Suzanne's birthday, dessert was a torte sort of cake, complete with candle, and also very tasty.

Ilse and Rodrigo (roll those R's, if you can).  Great hosts.  Their English was quite passable, with some "fishing for words."  Kind of neat learning about them and their lives in Puerto Varas.  Their two girls are finishing college.  Finally, with hugs all 'round, we departed after two hours.  The evening was a resounding success.

The entire day was a resounding success.  We retired early!