20171209

Kochi, Friday afternoon, 11/17/17


Kochi -- or Cochin -- the last port of call of Vasco de Gama (who knew?) will be our final stop on this amazing journey through India.  Situated on the southwest coast of the Indian peninsula in the oh-so-scenic state of Kerala and very close to the bottom of India, Kochi has been heralded as the "Queen of the Arabian Sea."  Kochi was an important spice trading center on the Arabian Sea coast from the 14th Century on ... about the same time Christopher Columbus was sailing the Ocean Blue looking for a cut-thru to the East Indies looking for a chance to enter the spice trade by sailing westward from Spain.

We wouldn't see too much of the city, as we only had maybe 24 hours here, but the time was well spent, near the water, traipsing the area in Fort Kochi, and examining several houses of worship.


Again, party signs everywhere, like the election signs that clutter front yards in America.  But to Jimmy and me (and others), it's very surprising to see the hammer and sickle flag on every fence post.


Some are better than others, but it's a relief whatever their condition.

The bus ride from our houseboat in Thottapally to the City of Kochi was roughly three hours, so you can bet your bippy this was a welcome stop!


On our arrival, with the bus parked, we walked to the Jewish Synagogue, built in 1538, although Wikipedia states the date as 1567, and the slab below says 1344.  Paradesi Synagogue is an active synagogue, but the number of Jewish people in Kochi has dwindled to 5 elderly members.  (The literal meaning of the term Paradesi is "foreigners," applied to the synagogue because it was built by Sephardic or Spanish-speaking Jews.)  The synagogue is located in an area still known as Jewtown, not an especially politically correct term.  We were allowed inside, but no shoes or photos allowed.

The clock tower was added in 1770 and was restored between 1998-1999.  (Clock, above)




I added this photo only so you could see where the restaurant is located.


Our stomachs demanded food next.  Resurrected from the remains of a Victorian shipyard, Brunton Boatyard is a hotel modeled on the old colonial buildings of Cochin, and it was here that we stopped for lunch.  The restaurant, with its high arched windows overlooked the Vembanad Lake waters.


Left, from front:  Gene, Kathy and Bob (and then we can't see faces)
Right, from front:  Judy, Art, Loren, Jean,
Far table, back right:  Ibby, Bernice, Phil and Ann 


Today's lunch.
Enlarge it to read it better; use your back arrow to return to this post.


Left, from front:  Claire, George, Denise
Right, from front:  Jimmy, me, Alice and Charles
And ... Hi, Frankie, at the head of the table! 


The caramel custard made with coconut milk and jaggery*, served with grilled, thin-sliced pineapple with shredded coconut, was what I liked best about my meal!  *Google it 😊!


Indian Bird of Paradise.
Gorgeous flower colors in Southern India.


After lunch we walked to the waterside to see the huge cantilevered fishing nets, called Chinese Fishing Nets, brought to India by the some of the first visitors to the Malabar Coast.  Installed on land, a more formal name is "shore operated lift nets."  The nets are set up on teak and bamboo poles and now they've become a big tourist attraction.  Tides influence when the nets are lowered into the water, and they're not left in long, maybe a half hour, then raised.


Nearby were lots of fish-for-sale stalls.  Fish and et cetera ....


A few of our group volunteered to try the raising/lowering of the net.  Jimmy is in the purple shirt. He said it wasn't too difficult with several people working, but he wouldn't want to do it all day!  I didn't try it.



Who needs a lawn mower or yard maintenance,
when friendly goats will crop the greens for free!

The City of Kochi includes mainland, islands and peninsulas.  Ferry boats connect all.  Our group tramped around Fort Kochi, bordering on the Arabian Sea, toward Mattancherry Palace.  The streets were lined with a mix of old houses built in the colonial periods by the Portuguese, Dutch and British.  The trees that had been planted many years earlier had matured into wonderful shade-givers, almost forming a canopy over the roads. 


Road Scholars walking left,
"Red" marchers heading the other direction.


St Francis Church was built in 1503 by the Portuguese as a Catholic church.


Alice and Jimmy sit in pews admiring the inside.  Overhead are punkahs, a type of large swinging fan fixed to the ceiling used to cool in the tropical heat, and originally pulled by a "coolie or punkah wallah," but later operated by electricity.  These punkahs are probably no longer being used, with the advent of A/C.  I've never seen pews made of a woven rattan before, but in a hot climate, it makes sense.


Vasco de Gama died in 1524 during his third visit to Kochi, and was buried in this Church. After 14 years, his body was taken back to Portugal. However, his burial spot inside the church is clearly marked out and has drawn visitors ever since, including us.


"Buddha Belly" -- Bambusa Vulgaris Bamboo.
Very cool looking, isn't it?


Anurag in the front of the bus -- our guide in India.
(I caught him not wearing his customary smile.)
Road Scholar has a good leader with Anurag.


Bridges are another lifeline to keep us connected.
We're on our way to the hotel.


We finally checked into the Gateway Hotel in Ernakulam, greeted as we have been at every hotel by a lovely local woman in sari offering us a traditional greeting that included placing a "bindi" vermillion dot on our foreheads.  Following that, a tray circulated with a most welcome cool juice drink.  Luggage was taken care of and the Road Scholars repaired to their rooms.  Look at the terrific view from our room.  


This evening we shared our "farewell dinner," here at the hotel.  Course upon course was placed in front of each person (some of it too spicy for me, as usual) and some very tasty.  Toasts were made, and most of us stood to give enthusiastic expression of our trip in general, and Anurag in particular (for putting up with us!) ... for being a good friend to us in India.

Tomorrow we have one more morning in Kochi.  Somehow we'll have to rearrange our suitcases to hold everything, and keep out what we'll need for the long airport wait and the flight to Athens.  Most of these clothes we won't want to see again for a long time!  Hard to believe our India visit will be over tomorrow.  How do these trips zip by so fast?  
   

4 comments:

  1. You covered an incredible amount of territory in India, as usual a pretty fast paced trip with so much to see. The Taj seems like so long ago and so far away! Bet you are glad to be home, and I do hope your back is feeling much better by now.

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  2. Ditto what Sue said about how much you covered in India. Tiring I'm sure, but if you're going only once, than worth it. This year on Insignia, clearing the ship in Cochin took so long -- they do say that the Brits came up with red tape but the Indians perfected it -- that we barely had time to get to the back waters and return before the ship sailed. The tour guide had every intention of taking us into Fort Kochi, but he got a call to return to the ship immediately ... it was a ship's tour. So I thought I might visit Fort Kochi this year when the ship stops there again, but instead have decided to do the Muziris Heritage Tour. Maybe the third time will be the charm ... we do want to make the most of our 10-year India visa so returning for an overland is not out of the question ... maybe with a tour with Road Scholar. I've been impressed with what I have read of your tours with them.

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    1. Thanks, Erin. Road Scholar does a good job on its tours. India was our third trip with them. We would definitely recommend.

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  3. And another amazing adventure draws to a close....

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